LS1 Guys...What do you shift at/rev to?

[Bam]

Also, I had the car scanned TODAY, NO KNOCK or misfires, so I guess I can rule that out?

[Squale iii]

I'm not trying to compare dyno sheets, just asking for exactly what you posted, for people to verify that them holding higher revs is worthwhile for them.

 

Wonder what the cam did to change the powerband on that car you posted compared to a stock profile cam.

 

Thanks for posting it.

 

Why don't you just go to the track and run it and see which rpm helps you the most? Different setups, auto vs. manual, etc... Just go see what nets you the best times/mph. I can say when mine was bone stock I was going to 6 grand.

[Bam]

needs more gear...

 

hell i think wag's car with some 3.42's radials and a ms3 cam and a 100 shot would move the fuck out. there are also better cams out there now, but it hards to beat whats been proven time and time again(if you want to talk cams, in a auto car..talk to v8beast, i think he has changed his 20 times now or so).but i know or do ls1's

 

Yeah, wagner's car seems pretty inline with times for its mods, especially given its a 2.73 rear. It'd make more sense for him to go to 3.73's than it does for me, since I've got 3.23's.

[Bam]

Why don't you just go to the track and run it and see which rpm helps you the most? Different setups, auto vs. manual, etc... Just go see what nets you the best times/mph. I can say when mine was bone stock I was going to 6 grand.

 

Well I can't really do that as I don't have the software to change the shift points. Unless you mean have Brian change them, then go to the track after every time. Definitely easier with a manual car to play around with that. Good idea though.

[Guest Removed]

How about I can't do anything about it now, so drop it? You've already PMed me your unhappiness fairly rudely, I'm not sure what Randy could have done that Brian didn't?

 

Can Randy magically make the car have a different power curve, or pull at a higher RPM? If so then maybe I'll go see him, but as of now I'm happy with how the car runs/drives, but as anyone who mods a car I'd like to see it go faster.

 

Unfortunately, everyone on LS1tech seems to think the car is perfectly inline for a lid only auto car, and I obviously have nothing to personally compare it to.

 

I chose to trust a friend of mine's advice over yours, so what? Not only that but randy didn't exactly give me a good vibe over the phone, and I feel Brian went out of his way to take care of me on the spot.

 

I guess what I don't understand is how ANY of this has anything to do with the tuner in this situation???? If my car is DROPPING power after 5400rpms, WHY should I shift higher? And how can a tuner fix that?

 

 

cause stock the motor should still be making power past 6k..that why.

 

think about this. alot of people base the way there car runs off of how anthonys runs. and yes..randy has the majic.

 

there is a big difference in the loading device, and i'll leave it at that. (since i dont want to start getting other sponsors pming anthony about my posts.)

[Squale iii]

Well I can't really do that as I don't have the software to change the shift points. Unless you mean have Brian change them, then go to the track after every time. Definitely easier with a manual car to play around with that. Good idea though.

 

Ah gotcha. Ya you kinda need someone with the tuning software at the track in that situation...hmmm.. Auto's aren't my thing, good luck!

[Guest Removed]

Also, I had the car scanned TODAY, NO KNOCK or misfires, so I guess I can rule that out?

 

 

what scanner? you have to watch the scanner in 3rd gear at WOT and watch the knock sensor data...(is that how it was done?)

[Bam]

Thanks Rob for offering that, and I understand that it SHOULD be making power past 6k, I just don't understand how a tune/tuner can make it NOT make power above 6k? I feel like I'm asking the same question over and over, so sorry if this is repeated, but if I stick my car on a dyno, ANY DYNO, and do repeated pulls to 6500, and the car only makes power to 5500, what can a tuner do to change that?

[MrMeanGreen]

How about I'm not talking about the tuner, ass, I'm talking about the hours I spent explaining to you about mods and what to do/not do with the car.

 

I also don't give two fucks what the dyno says, these cars make power to AT LEAST 6000 RPMs if running right. So either:

 

Something is wrong with the dyno (not)

Your car is fucked up (more likely)

 

So instead of spending money on shit you didn't need, try fixing the car first.

 

FYI, my "1998 auto LS1" went 13.24@106.5 bone stock with nothing done to it and 2.73s. Swapping to 3.73s it went 12.96@108.5.

 

No lid, no cat-back, no DRs, nothing. Your car has an issue that needs addressed.

 

So again, before asking everyone on here or LS1Tech, take my advice or don't, but put the fucking thing on an eddy-current dyno and scan for knock or false knock. Change the plugs, change the wires, check everything.

 

But don't you fucking dare call my ass out after the help I gave you and jump my shit.

 

BTW, 5500 shift points are dumb as shit. This isn't a big block.

 

How about I can't do anything about it now, so drop it? You've already PMed me your unhappiness fairly rudely, I'm not sure what Randy could have done that Brian didn't?

 

Can Randy magically make the car have a different power curve, or pull at a higher RPM? If so then maybe I'll go see him, but as of now I'm happy with how the car runs/drives, but as anyone who mods a car I'd like to see it go faster.

 

Unfortunately, everyone on LS1tech seems to think the car is perfectly inline for a lid only auto car, and I obviously have nothing to personally compare it to.

 

I chose to trust a friend of mine's advice over yours, so what? Not only that but randy didn't exactly give me a good vibe over the phone, and I feel Brian went out of his way to take care of me on the spot.

 

I guess what I don't understand is how ANY of this has anything to do with the tuner in this situation???? If my car is DROPPING power after 5400rpms, WHY should I shift higher? And how can a tuner fix that?

[Bam]

what scanner? you have to watch the scanner in 3rd gear at WOT and watch the knock sensor data...(is that how it was done?)

 

Um, I think a Snap-on? I dunno, derek did it/watched it while I drove, he said it didn't show anything.

[Squale iii]

How about I'm not talking about the tuner, ass, I'm talking about the hours I spent explaining to you about mods and what to do/not do with the car.

 

I also don't give two fucks what the dyno says, these cars make power to AT LEAST 6000 RPMs if running right. So either:

 

Something is wrong with the dyno (not)

Your car is fucked up (more likely)

 

So instead of spending money on shit you didn't need, try fixing the car first.

 

FYI, my "1998 auto LS1" went 13.24@106.5 bone stock with nothing done to it and 2.73s. Swapping to 3.73s it went 12.96@108.5.

 

No lid, no cat-back, no DRs, nothing. Your car has an issue that needs addressed.

 

So again, before asking everyone on here or LS1Tech, take my advice or don't, but put the fucking thing on an eddy-current dyno and scan for knock or false knock. Change the plugs, change the wires, check everything.

 

But don't you fucking dare call my ass out after the help I gave you and jump my shit.

 

BTW, 5500 shift points are dumb as shit. This isn't a big block.

 

I agree with the plugs... Correct plugs, correct gap, world of difference. My car used to break up at higher rpm when I first got it...found out a plug had the porceline (sp?) cracked...fixed that, car pulled strong to redline.

[Bam]

How about I'm not talking about the tuner, ass, I'm talking about the hours I spent explaining to you about mods and what to do/not do with the car.

 

I also don't give two fucks what the dyno says, these cars make power to AT LEAST 6000 RPMs if running right. So either:

 

Something is wrong with the dyno (not)

Your car is fucked up (more likely)

 

So instead of spending money on shit you didn't need, try fixing the car first.

 

FYI, my "1998 auto LS1" went 13.24@106.5 bone stock with nothing done to it and 2.73s. Swapping to 3.73s it went 12.96@108.5.

 

No lid, no cat-back, no DRs, nothing. Your car has an issue that needs addressed.

 

So again, before asking everyone on here or LS1Tech, take my advice or don't, but put the fucking thing on an eddy-current dyno and scan for knock or false knock. Change the plugs, change the wires, check everything.

 

But don't you fucking dare call my ass out after the help I gave you and jump my shit.

 

BTW, 5500 shift points are dumb as shit. This isn't a big block.

 

Dude, I haven't done ANY mods, I've got a FUCKING LID, the one YOU told me to buy on craigslist.

 

I'm not trying to throw more mods at it just because, the whole point of this thread is for me to LEARN from others about WHY my car may not be performing in tip top shape. Aka needing a tune up etc, so thank you for posting the helpful things.

 

Where exactly did I call you out, anywhere? If anything I thanked you many times for the insight and direction in modding, wtf?

 

What is an eddy-current dyno? Sorry, I don't know my stuff yet.

 

Also, I am aware of the AWESOME times your car ran stock, so I just want to ask, was it tuned at all or stock tune as well? I hope my car can at least pull those times tuned w/ the lid.

[Guest Removed]

Thanks Rob for offering that, and I understand that it SHOULD be making power past 6k, I just don't understand how a tune/tuner can make it NOT make power above 6k? I feel like I'm asking the same question over and over, so sorry if this is repeated, but if I stick my car on a dyno, ANY DYNO, and do repeated pulls to 6500, and the car only makes power to 5500, what can a tuner do to change that?

 

 

dude, im telling you now. when the car is loaded(ie going down the street) its in different fuel cells in the mapping, then say having just revving it on jack stands.(just example fokes, keep your panties out of a bunch)

 

and the nice thing, is how much different does it feel going down the street with the shift points set here, or here or here. raise the shift point and i bet it feels faster. hell one person asked for them to be lowered cause is was scary to him to watch the tacvh go to 6500 on each shift. but with 4.10 gears, it gets there much faster. when you shift to low even in a stick shift car, what happen's?

[Squale iii]

Dude, I haven't done ANY mods, I've got a FUCKING LID, the one YOU told me to buy on craigslist.

 

I'm not trying to throw more mods at it just because, the whole point of this thread is for me to LEARN from others about WHY my car may not be performing in tip top shape. Aka needing a tune up etc, so thank you for posting the helpful things.

 

Where exactly did I call you out, anywhere? If anything I thanked you many times for the insight and direction in modding, wtf?

 

What is an eddy-current dyno? Sorry, I don't know my stuff yet.

 

Also, I am aware of the AWESOME times your car ran stock, so I just want to ask, was it tuned at all or stock tune as well? I hope my car can at least pull those times tuned w/ the lid.

 

 

SLP lid is about the only thing SLP did right. That's a good first purchase.

[Bam]

My car stock put down 264whp/288wtq and had an AFR of 15.8, so I'm sure I'm leagues better than I was then, and I wonder if it would've even broke into the 14's running like that.

 

My car doesn't break up/anything anywhere in the powerband. I guess I will just do plugs/wires/fuel filter maybe this weekend and see if that changes anything.

 

Thanks for the help guys, I'm just trying to figure this stuff out.

[Squale iii]

My car stock put down 264whp/288wtq and had an AFR of 15.8, so I'm sure I'm leagues better than I was then, and I wonder if it would've even broke into the 14's running like that.

 

My car doesn't break up/anything anywhere in the powerband. I guess I will just do plugs/wires/fuel filter maybe this weekend and see if that changes anything.

 

Thanks for the help guys, I'm just trying to figure this stuff out.

 

264?? Jesus christ that's shitty lol.

[Bam]

264?? Jesus christ that's shitty lol.

 

lol, you're telling me. I saw the first pull and about shit myself.

 

I guess 85k miles really must take a toll on a car, hopefully with a basic tune-up it'll be a whole other animal.

[Guest Removed]

 

What is an eddy-current dyno? Sorry, I don't know my stuff yet.

 

quote]

a load bearing dyno....you can load the car likes it going down the street.. its way easyer to do all your part throttle tuning and shift mods.

 

 

plus, the one wags had his car on, you can pull 1/4 pass's on the car and scan for knock and so on. shifting to soon can cause the false knock etc.

 

damn it no ones reads my posts..so why the fuck do i keep saying it.

 

im done here

[TurboRust]

i was watching for knock on a snap on brick.. it had no knock retard through all of 2nd and most of 3rd(before we could get arrested for going twice the speed limit). I've sugggested starting with a simple plug/wires tune up. as they look stock for 80k miles.

 

(wow 4 posts were made in teh time it took me to type that..lol)

[Guest Removed]

My car stock put down 264whp/288wtq and had an AFR of 15.8, so I'm sure I'm leagues better than I was then, and I wonder if it would've even broke into the 14's running like that.

 

My car doesn't break up/anything anywhere in the powerband. I guess I will just do plugs/wires/fuel filter maybe this weekend and see if that changes anything.

 

Thanks for the help guys, I'm just trying to figure this stuff out.

 

 

stock it shouldnt run 15.8 a/f...something is wrong with it..listen to the jew.

[Bam]

 

What is an eddy-current dyno? Sorry, I don't know my stuff yet.

 

quote]

a load bearing dyno....you can load the car likes it going down the street.. its way easyer to do all your part throttle tuning and shift mods.

 

 

plus, the one wags had his car on, you can pull 1/4 pass's on the car and scan for knock and so on. shifting to soon can cause the false knock etc.

 

damn it no ones reads my posts..so why the fuck do i keep saying it.

 

im done here

 

dude, i'm reading them, i just didn't knw they were called a eddy-current dyno

[Bam]

stock it shouldnt run 15.8 a/f...something is wrong with it..listen to the jew.

 

i know, brian tuned it to a 12.5 flat, im not sure what could have caused it to be so lean.

[Squale iii]

lol, you're telling me. I saw the first pull and about shit myself.

 

I guess 85k miles really must take a toll on a car, hopefully with a basic tune-up it'll be a whole other animal.

 

My car has 95k on it. Been beating on it since I bought it with 65k miles. Made 414rwhp pre heads last fall, new numbers with heads in a week or so... You just need to figure out what's going on in there. LS1's are stout motors, something just needs to be tweaked/replaced. I'd do TR6 plugs (if you're n/a), gap them correctly, and see what happens. I still have stock plug wires and they work great for me.

[Guest Removed]

i know, brian tuned it to a 12.5 flat, im not sure what could have caused it to be so lean.

 

 

so you knowly tuned a car that was having a issue..nice.

 

fueling(filter with 85k isnt going to flow that great let me tell you), and tune up parts have a roll in it...should have done that first, then tune! not after

 

n/a tr5's. tr6's if minor boost or spray.

[Guest Removed]

Um, I think a Snap-on? I dunno, derek did it/watched it while I drove, he said it didn't show anything.

 

 

WOT in 3rd on the freeway?