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High Mileage Sport Touring Tires...


accel_is_my_drug

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I've been pretty happy with Bridgestone BT-021's, and I hear the -023's are pretty good.

I think I got around 6,000 miles out of my last set of -021's on the FZ1 with about half of those miles being 2-up with my wife and luggage on the back and the other half being somewhat agressive riding. I've never had those tires let me down, and continue to be impressed with the grip they offer.

I'll echo the other sentiments, I'll gladly shell out a couple extra bucks to make sure I have tires I can count on when I need them.

Edited by Hailwood
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So it's my own damn fault I can't get 4k out of a set of contis. Thanks guys. Good discussion though - there are many many factors and a wide disparity of results.

For those who don't know me - ignore these guys, they've all been brainwashed by the Pauly spin machine to think I go fast, so that he looks extra good blasting by me!

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It's the Oh-leenz.

Exactly.

Besides' date=' I thought that the best you could look on a Multi was 'quirky' or 'interesting'. 'Extra good' seems kind of a stretch :p

I must have the Noh-leenz

That's apparently the first mod any bike that I own gets.

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Sure no problem.

  • The rubber compounds are much different due the the intended application.
  • The carcass of a car tire is not designed to flex under the weight of a motorcycle and provide an optimal contact patch.
  • A car tire will actually give a bigger contact patch when going straight, but a smaller contact patch while turning. This gives inconsistent handling. It may be a good choice for drag racing, but not for street bike riding.
  • When transitioning from a left to right turn or vice versa, the round profile of a motorcycle will smoothly track from one side to the other. With a car tire the track of the rear end will 'jump' side to side by the width of the tire (try this at home with that spare tire in your garage), which could result in a crash.

Of course a crash in no big deal when you just saved 175 bucks on a tire.

Roger seems to handle just fine in his transitions (though he has informed me that he does have to "actively" countersteer), as you can see, he has no problem with side grip well into where he's dragging hard parts, he actually has a wider contact patch with the car tire, as it does flex well enough to never climb onto sidewall... also let us redo your math, if I were to switch to ct's, i'd save $1000 per tire change... 30,000 to 40,000 miles per tire instead of 7000 to 8000 I get now.

Now, as I've said, its not a good fit for me, I lean too far, but if I had a bagger or a wing, id darkside in a heartbeat.

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Roger seems to handle just fine in his transitions (though he has informed me that he does have to "actively" countersteer), as you can see, he has no problem with side grip well into where he's dragging hard parts, he actually has a wider contact patch with the car tire, as it does flex well enough to never climb onto sidewall... also let us redo your math, if I were to switch to ct's, i'd save $1000 per tire change... 30,000 to 40,000 miles per tire instead of 7000 to 8000 I get now.

Now, as I've said, its not a good fit for me, I lean too far, but if I had a bagger or a wing, id darkside in a heartbeat.

Dragging hard parts on a wing or a cruiser based bagger isn't exactly 'tearing it up.' There are obvious limitations to lean angle.

A tire with a round profile like a PR2 falls into a corner differently than a triangular profile like a Corse III. On a car tire, you need to flex the carcass in a way that is wasn't designed in the first place. If the bike or rider has limited cornering capability, perhaps you wouldn't overwhelm the car tire, but still I wouldn't trust it. I'll bet a dollar that any tire engineer would agree.

It seems kinda dumb to spend $18k (or whatever they cost) on a wing then cheap out on tires.

Just because you can, doesn't mean it's a good idea

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