mello dude

^^^ Agree with that, I have had to plug 2 rear tires on my VFRs and I ran them down to the cords, and I have a plug in my Valk running around for the moment. Gonna run it to bald - replace it time. -- Its always the rear - what's up with that?

Running a RoadSmart on the rear and generally happy with it. Cant comment on mileage as I dont have enuff on it to say one way or another. - I think for rear, I'm comfortable going RoadSmart, PR2 or PR3. I think next time I need a rear, I'm gonna do the price shop thing and go from there. -- Fronts I think I'm sticking with Pilot Powers. I need to trust the front will go where I point it.

Been tempted to try these guys...... http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

Agree with CSC that the kawi should have a 3 phase system.... -- To add more fodder to the mix..... --Your gonna have to do a serious dig into your charging system......-- Check to see that your connectors are good, I've seen some nasty burn up parts, especially the stator connector. ---If they are toast - fix first. -- Your are going to need a reasonable quality digital multimeter. Lots of places have them. Then --- ---Go through this starting point quick list. Steps: - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed. - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two. These are R/R quick checks--- --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish idle and in 14s at revs. - Check stator - 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks . - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings - Repeat hot. This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf Knock out the numbers, write 'em down and tell us what they are. -- We'll go from there. ......

Hi dude... 123 & 350 are some of my fav local roads to play on...

I have the RF- 1000 but havent tryed the accesories. I do have several size cheek pads that have been sitting around... - On your viffer, have you tried fitting a Zero Gravity Double Bubble windshield? It bumps the wind blast up higher. Of course like most things, there is a zone where it works the best.

Cool old bike, wouldnt be bad for an around town beater or cafe job.

Just takes a few bucks to upgrade and clean up the issues. - Can u say power commander?

You can get a nice viffer - 5th or 6th gen for in the range of 3k to 5k depending what you want.

Cool -- - Sounds good...nothing like having your ride up to full snuff..... I'll be happy to chase that 6 (or visa versa) though some twists if you get time...

Dayton powder coat source?

^^^ Basically yes.... but its good to do a sano job of a wire hook up. The leads on the meter are something like 28 gage and kinda wimpy. So the wires need to be routed so theres no stress on them. Some silcone to seal it up and heat shrink tube is a good idea. -I'm not that familiar with the 6th gen wire harness, but if you do this, step back and plan how you will route your wires. On the 5th gen, the main harness runs by the left side of the bike and I routed the meter wires thru a shrink tube and zip tied it next to the harness and it all comes out by the battery. Then you need a fuse holder you can buy at autozone and also a rocker switch goes to the battery on the positive side. (battery, fuse,[1 amp or less] then switch) On the neg side you can go to the battery or find a good ground on the frame. ------- (Some guys have used a relay powered off the tail light to trigger juice to the meter. I did this at first, but in that set up, you dont know where your battery is at before you switch the key on. Didnt care for that setup. I like the rocker switch on idea much better in that you check the battery condition before starting the bike.) The switch on mine i have under the seat looks like...... Also highly recommended - add in a digikey diode per the sheet here. It cost a whole 5 bucks from digikey. http://www.martelmeters.com/pdf/QM_100V-40.pdf The whole thing is just basic wiring - some terminal crimp connectors, heat shrink tubing, extra 18 gage wire, a few zip ties and some patience. Not hard at all.

^^^ Looks good - I wonder how those compare to a Datel meter? Looks like theres lot of ebay options. - I'm really liking mine, I have it wired direct to the battery with a fuse and toggle switch and leave it on full time so I can spot the battery voltage whether I'm deep do or not before I even ride.

Yeah - your bikes lights were bright as shit... - I bet those lights are nice to ride behind. Suspension stuff - check Tony Foale, he's a guru of bike suspensions... http://www.tonyfoale.com/

Yamaha over the last 10 years or so has worked hard to lenthen swingarms while keeping wheelbase the same. I think the effect was to get better bite under acceleration and better compression/rebound control from the shock. (correct me if I'm wrong gurus) - I got passed by an R6 on 675 south tonite at about 9:55. The guy had to be running about 85. Was that you?

Some Honda OEM R/Rs will go a long time, but it seems like a pretty good fallout of them die early. A meter is cheap insurance so you dont find yourself stranded. Also its worthwhile to check voltage at the battery at idle and 5k rpm on a regular basis. VFRD has a show your meter thread..... btw - I saw your run hot thread. Its worth doing a flushout and add new coolant fill. I'm guessing the bike still has the factory fill. I run the Honda blue stuff you buy at the auto dealer and 4 ounces of Water Wetter per gallon in the mix.

^^^ Assuming your asking about the meter, its water resistant, not water proof. Some have died in heavy rainstorms. Also the thing is not super shock resistant so dont mount it on the triple tree. ---- I like it mostly because its one hole to drill and mounts with a stud. Other guys have gone the datel route, but that takes a rectangular cutout to mount and I didnt want to foole with that. btw- my stock R/R went 10,500 miles before eating it.

Its nice to have to watch the trend of the health of your charging system. You know in advance that something weird (bad) is going on. Then you avoid the - oh shit in the middle of nowhere moments. Unless Honda has upgraded to MOSFET technology, its not a matter of if, but when that your R/R will eat it. - - VFR stators typically go 40k to 50k.

Since Honda put such a high quality charging system in the VFR (bullshit) and it normally lasts the lifetime of the motorcycle (bullshit), I decided that it would be a good idea to add a Lascar voltmeter on the bike to keep an eye of what is going on. http://www.lascarelectronics.com/temperaturedatalogger.php?location=us&datalogger=116 A trip to Lowes for some stuff and throw in a hacksaw, file and drill, and you get …. Does the job......cool...

I want it but timing is bad..

I used to develop airbag systems for cars. Airbags ususally are developed for a "zone" of most effectiveness. In cars the Fed, mandates the frontal test at 30 mph. I would be curious as to what speed the Honda tests were run and what happens to the rider after the airbag goes off. (stays on the bike? over the bars still? -whats the dynamic?) Also a big question for you is what about crashes with 2 up? What happens to the passenger in the crash? Crashes are all about the energy of momentum. The longer you can take to dissipate the energy, the less chance for injury. In your crash, you and you wife were probly fortunate to the thrown over the car and not hitting anything. That allowed you to roll out the energy to dissipate it at a longer interval and come out alive. Airbag on a bike? Tough choice. If the crash is a tall truck and your gonna hit it solid and not go anywhere, the airbag is probly a good thing. If the crash is a over the bar type, I might pick that vs the airbag if the speed is 40 mph +. Airbags are a fantastic lifesaving device, but its not going to work for all situation. Yet I commend Honda for pushing the envelop. Best wishes to you and your wife. Heal well.