Geeto67

surprisingly we both agree.....will now patiently await hell freezing over. busy shops usually have communication issues, it is an industry problem. Shops that do good work usually are busy so.... I agree it might help him to have this in managing expectations.

Let's start with a basic approach - the code is not "generic", it is tied to a specific sensor and a specific condition that may have multiple causes. The code is thrown by the fuel tank pressure sensor showing vacuum draw on the evap system when the evap purge solenoid is closed and the vent solenoid is open. So generally there may be a problem with your EVAP system. Start with a visual inspection and look for any split lines, disconnected lines, breaks in the wiring, etc... If you don't see any move to diagnostics and test the individual components. Do you have any other symptoms? rough idle? To test the purge valve disconnect the hose from it to the Throttle Body at the purge valve and plug the end of it. if the idle changes (gets smoother) then the purge valve is going bad. Also check the ends when you remove the hose as they might have cracked. A quick google search indicates that the purge valve is a pretty common failure linked to this code and it is less than $100 to replace yourself. here is a good writeup on how to replace it: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153485

I dunno man. Look I don't know you and your work does come highly recommended but I have to say this is not really a good public attitude to have. You should consider this a review, because it does speak a little to your communication which is part of your professionalism. When I was looking for a body shop on here I got a lot, and I do mean A LOT, of people who recommended you very highly but they all said the same thing: "he's fantastic but....he sucks at communication". I get it you have your loyal customers and a reputation for good actual work, but you do also have this other reputation as being difficult to communicate with. this may be hurting you more than you know. I didn't go with you because honestly for an in and out insurance job on a car I depended on I really didn't need to add a communication problem to the mix (esp when an urgency in my life is not an urgency in yours). It sounds like you have a great loyal customer base but you might not be growing as fast as you could when even your customer base is saying "he's great,but..." I'm not trying to jump on your shit and be a dick here, just pointing out an area in which you could grow that might help your business. I personally would at some point like to talk to you about work on a car I have because apparently your work is "that good", but I would have wait until I didn't depend on that car so I could get comfortable with not speaking to you for two weeks while you have my car. ..now cue my fan club to tell me what a dick I am being.

I have had a really good experience with Auto Body Specialists on 5th ave in Grandview based on a recommendation from this board. I would call them, they will sort you out and as a bonus you get to look at all the pretty race cars they work on. Auto Body Specialist Auto Body Shop Address: 1058 W 5th Ave, Columbus, OH 43212 Phone: (614) 299-5551

From my personal perspective and experience: - Lift kits run the gamut from poorest of poor quality to well engineered, but unless you have a lot of experience with them it's hard to tell if it is good one or bad one or if it is installed properly. - lifting a jeep often requires a lot of changes: pinon angles, transfer case spacing, drive-shafts, axle ratios, etc....none of these things are usually included in the kit and a lot of times you are basically buying someone's half finished project. There is always more work to do on a lifted jeep so often you are being asked to compromise more than if you bought a stock one. The ones that have been done "right" are usually expensive and often have only the tub and frame and pieces of the interior left as stock as everything else has been touched - and even then there may still be one or two things. - most people don't have a "need" for a lifted jeep. Most people don't have a need for a Rubicon really either. They buy it thinking about how cool it looks and how they are going to go off roading every other weekend but in reality they go at most once a month if diligent and committed, less frequent if normal, otherwise they would already have a lifted truck. when you don't have a burning need in your loins to climb rocks it makes it harder to live with all the other compromises in the next bullet point..... - ...Lifted jeeps are a pain in the ass to drive on the street: the steering wanders, the bump steer gets worse, it is slow (unless v-8 swapped), maintenance costs double (ever price out 35-inch tires?), fuel economy suffers, reliability and durability goes down, visibility suffers, sometimes they run hotter, etc... The people I know that bought stock wranglers or lightly modded ones kept them for a long time but anybody I know who bought a lifted jeep (over 2") sold it within 2 years of buying it. again ymmv

Nobody said the YJ was more comfortable than the CJ...they just bitched and moaned about how much plastic was in the interior and that it now had carpet vs the all metal tin can goodness of the CJ. Saying a YJ is more comfortable than a CJ is like saying a stainless steel bed of nails is more comfortable than a galvanized steel bed of nails. Maybe I am biased because I have been Daily Driving a 1995 YJ for almost 20 years (I say almost because there were some years where I would use my bike or my GTO as primary and the wrangler as back-up), but I don't think there is anything wrong with daily driving a jeep. Plenty do it every day. However..... ....it is not for the faint of heart. If you are the kind of person who - looks at a 1960's rust bucket car and thinks: "yeah, I'll have no problem driving it to California" - sleeps on a hard mattress and when you camp you sleep on the ground - laments the loss of hand crank windows in mainstream cars - thinks Air conditioning is a luxury item - doesn't equate creaks and rattles with poor engineering and build quality but rather considers them a pleasant side effect of normal wear and tear and a small badge of honor - doesn't mind using a hammer to fix things - doesn't mind hearing loss - doesn't use a cell phone in their car - thinks traction control is for pussies - thinks America hasn't made a decent car since American Motors was still a thing - has a field of fucks that is constantly barren and therefore has none to harvest and distribute Then I think you will do fine. If you are not any of those things then you might struggle a bit. FWIW though I do see plenty of 20-something women driving TJs, way more than I see anybody driving YJs these days, so it isn't that hard. Get the hardtop. Why? driving with the soft top up is loud and annoying. Get full doors if you can too, you can always buy half doors later for cheaper than you can find TJ full doors if you really want to have both. Swapping doors takes 5 minutes. Even after you get the hardtop you should consider putting a liner on the inside of it like plasti-dip. I know people think it isn't much of a liner but my buddy did it to his JK and it took a lot of the hollow soup can echo out of a hardtop jeep. It also helped a little bit with the temps (raw fiberglass hardtops transmit a lot of heat in the summer and cold in the winter. Planning to do it to the YJ when it stops raining. Be prepared to be very lonely with your Jeep. When the weather is nice it is a fun convertible and everybody will want to pile in and drive around. Any other weather? everyone will hate being in it. If your significant other is not a "jeep person" it will just feel like a junky falling apart car that you can't have a conversation in at highway speeds. If you have kids under 4 years old they will hate it because it's either too hot or too cold and they can't really enjoy the top down part. things to check: radiator windshield seal rear main seal clutch (including the slave cyl) transfer case rust (esp frame rust) track-lok limited slip (factory ones are usually blown by 80K miles) front axle U-joints Front axle seals Driveshaft u-joints Things to avoid: automatic transmissions (they seriously suck) 4 cylinder wranglers TJs without air-conditioning Lift kits (unless you really want a trail truck)

I don't take it serious at all. This is all entertainment for me. Been hearing from others that "you have it in for me" and clearly you are thinking about me way to much for you to mention it out of the blue and start this dialog. I don't have to take any pot shots, why would I? Who are you that I should give enough of a shit other than to comment on something you said an move on?

Not in the slightest, but he doesn't even register on my radar and I'm not going around taking pot shots at him. I'm just saying if dude really has a problem why fill up other people's threads with it, why not just pm me and talk it out?

What's wrong with it? Does it still have the original '68 engine? It would be a 2.0 liter if stock, 3.0 liter if upgraded to 1982 specs.

Yeah sure ok buddy. Your comment totally made sense in the context of the conversation and wasn't at all an attempt to provoke something. Yeah whatever. sad. So so sad.

http://www.americanmotorcyclist.com/events/amavintagemotorcycledays Anybody going?

Nutter Hardware in the Kingsdale Shopping center in UA rents these kind of drink dispensers for parties and such. I mean if you don't need them for more than a day might be a better option than purchasing.

Why do you want to poke the bear? If all you want to do is be aggressive just PM me, it will be easier and you won't look like a douche picking a fight. ItzaMe: I am curious if the wheelbase was changed. 1968 would make it an 87 inch wheelbase but the later "modern" aircooleds would be 89 inch. The overall length of the car didn't change but the rear wheel position did. wondering if when they did the turbo look wheel arches they did all the other stuff too. Also what tranny is in it? 901? 915? G50?

have you checked the battery? 1985 is still an ironhead and those starters won't turn if they don't have a fully charged battery. I had a similar issue with my '74 and replaced the battery and it cleared right up.

fixed it for you.

Why? Once a Porsche isn't original anymore it's a tinker toy. It's not an "82" any more that it is a VW beetle, it just has a lot of more modern parts on it. Nice car. I don't think you'll find anyone these days that will say an aircooled Porsche is financially a bad move. All he has to do it hold it for 2 years without doing a thing to it and the increase in value will beat inflation.

At what level? I'm pretty sure dude is racing already and this is an unforeseen added expense for him trying to do something out of the normal budget. I don't think anybody here is laboring under the illusion that the show is not scripted, stages, and rigged in some way. as for "flexing" their muscles I am not sure what you mean - racing on beat to shit public or semi public roads without traction prep is a huge limitation on power, I'm sure everyone has to turn it down just so the cars don't just whip 180s right of the line and plow through fields and crap. When you are holding yourself out on TV as "the fastest" there will always be someone to challenge that. I'm sure they pick guys with impressive looking setups that they know they can beat because there is no shortage of people who want to be on TV.

Do they? I thought the 3.2 had the same brakes as the 2.0t. Good to know.

So, that opinion is not just limited to members on this board then? good to know.

it's four times as girly. Get it right. But then again - take a toy dog on a leash to a park and see how many good looking women come up and talk to you just because your "girly" dog is cute. Same effect.

except he didn't have to. He put enough karma in the world and was "a good enough guy" that when something bad happened enough people didn't want to see him struggle even a little. Ya know what? it happens. You are trying to defeat an economic principle with a moral argument based on your own morals as an outsider to the transaction. Of course you don't get it, and you aren't supposed to because there is no ROI for you.

Classy. So you are his accountant then? you know how his business works? You work in the industry and you have inside info? no? There is a shocker!!! Clearly. I have a news flash for you - Studios don't pay for movies to get made out of pocket either. They beg people for money and promise a monetary return on investment. Here your ROI isn't money it's in entertainment value and maybe a warm fuzzy feeling and a t-shirt. Here's a question - There has to be at least one guy on this site who does dragweek or something similar, if they are willing to chime in, how much does it cost? I betcha it ain't cheap. I look at it this way - if the dude wants to be on TV and not look like a joke (insert joke about people on TV here) he has to roll out the best effort he can. And that costs. I highly doubt this is even going to cost him the $7.5K he's asking - it will probably be more and he'll have to put his own money into it.

to you..to the person "begging" maybe not so much. yeah they have a quality control issue, but then again that's kind of the point. Put anything up there and let the market determine if it has "value". It's kind of the heart of free market economics.

So what's wrong with that? Being a "good guy" shouldn't be rewarded once in a while? Nobody here as passed the hat at the track for their buddy with a broken race car/bike/boat/plane that needed something in a pinch? I find that hard to believe. Want to know the great part about kickstarter/gofundme/etc...crowd funding sites? if a project really has no visible value demonstrable to the public the thing doesn't get funded. as far as the gofundme under discussion - we will just have to wait and see if it happens or not.

so opinions are ok, but opinions on opinions are not. gotcha. Lolz. People can spend their money any way they want. Who cares if they decide to spend it on something they find entertaining.