Nitrousbird

If the above doesn't buy it, I will. Have CASH.

For some reason I bet that targa top wasn't exactly done right.

The box's diagnostic screen claims MPEG-2. And I don't have the tool for the case.

I love Stern and Bubba about equally, with the nod probably going to Stern. Both are 10x better now that they are on Sirius.

You can't Anthony. The USB port on your DVR is for diagnostics, it's not designed for data transfer. There are 2 Firewire ports, but they are inactive (firmware isn't loaded in for them...trust me, I've tried). I haven't tried lately; it's possible firmware updates have been made, but I haven't heard of anything at work about it. Now the hard drive encryption is turned off, so you could physically remove the hard drive (they are just Maxtor units), and might be able to pull data that way. F' it up, though, and that's an expensive box to get billed for. That, and it takes a special tool to remove the cover.

I've owned a number of GM's, and never had battery problems with them. Batterys do tend to die from time to time; no biggie. God knows how the previous owner treated it.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b308/TimbrSS/DSC03143.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b308/TimbrSS/DSC03144.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b308/TimbrSS/DSC03145.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b308/TimbrSS/DSC03146.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b308/TimbrSS/DSC03147.jpg http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b308/TimbrSS/DSC03148.jpg

West Marine sells them, they are off of Sawmill.

My roomate just graduated there a few months ago. He learned a lot, but he did it more for his own knowledge than a career (he already has another degree). But he knew about cars before going in, and did it for the purpose of knowing a LOT more. You kind of get what you take out of it.

That's not what I typed; something got screwed up. I was well on my way to being quite drunk when I typed that out.

Reynoldsburg.

I have a hand-pump style with a catch can, but I'm probably going to use it today or tomorrow. It's something you should own anyway; they aren't that expensive.

Dear Ben, sdaflkjsdaf asdf;kj sfd;kjsafd sfdakjsd sfdj; fjsd fopsdfpoi f;ods fjksd;l fmjdis fjisd sfdjff aa fjk fkafmf fmdsa fff dia f';ewff f\e #$#@! RESDFF $dsjfsa fjujda - Joe (I swear mother fuckers should have to take a test before being allowed to post on the internet). Typing isn't exactly a high-level skill, and neither is structuring a semi-understandable sentence with a minimum of 4th grade grammar. (I swear mothfuckers should have to take a test before being allowed to post on the internet. Typing isn't exactly a high-level skill, and neither is structuring a semi-understandable sentence with a minimum of 4th grade grammar.

I'll be taking my roomate out w/ some buds tonight for birthday shit = drunk off our asses, probably in the Arena District. What's this Latino stuff going on downtown? Isn't going to screw with my festivities, is it?

If I were a terrorist, I'd make this post in the Parking Lot. Edit: Damn, TJ is quick.

My god. I just came without even touching myself. That's some hot horse porn right there.

These 5.0's go forever. Ask Fowler; he was spraying his at 200k+ without an issue. Highway travel isn't hard on it either, which helps.

PM sent. I have nothing to hide about this car. It's not perfect by any means, and w/ 210k and only 3k price tag, you sure as hell shouldn't be expecting anything close to perfect. But it has been VERY reliable, still runs strong, and has scored some compliments from random folks. Actually, a buddy of mine was going to buy it, but money issues came up and can't.

No, I'm not parting anything from the car. Because if it doesn't sell and I keep it, I want all of those parts that are on it.

I didn't realize you also asked about skiing. There are some significant differences. - Have them moving at idle and straight, trimmed down, and once they are ready (hit it, go, middle finger, etc.) go WOT. Keep it at WOT, and once you can start trimming, trim right away. - With 2 skis, it takes nothing to pull someone out of the water. With slalom (one), you must get going a lot faster, and getting the boat to plane out quickly is important. Nothing pisses me off more than getting half drowned on my slalom because the driver isn't trimming up soon enough...it takes a LOT of energy to hold on when you are getting drowned. http://cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Random%20Pics/joeski7-2.jpg That is me about 1/2 way up, boat just starting to trim. Before that, all that water is going over my head and in my face. Gives you an idea of why the sooner you are up, the better. - When cornering w/ skiis, take it long and wide. With skiing, you just want to drive straight and easy as much as possible, and let the skiier work the boat. Also, an up/down hand gesture to signify choppy water ahead is very helpful.

Since I rarely drive it anymore, and some other things have came up that could make some nice use of the money from the car, it's up for sale. - 5-speed car - EVERY option available (power seat/locks/windows/mirrors, ice cold A/C, leather, Mach 460 stereo, etc.). If it was available on a 94 GT, this car has it - 210k on the clock Mods: - 97 Cobra rims (real ones, not knock-off's) - Lowered 1.5" - Flowmaster Cat-Back - B&M Ripper Shifter - Catless H-pipe (stock pipe also included w/ car if you want/need cats) - Crank underdrive pulley - Air pump belt bypass mod - Alarm integrated into factory keyless entry Problems: - The exhaust needs about $5 in parts and a few hours of on jackstands work. Basically just needs taken off and put back on correctly. It squeaks and rattles, and leaks in a couple of places. I just haven't had time to get to it yet. It's VERY annoying. All new bolts and some time is all it needs. - Squeak from the front spring, sounds like it is from the spring perch. Very annoying as well, but just needs greased and/or reseated. Again, labor, no money involved, but I haven't gotten to it yet. - Car has a homemade CAI kit on it. The fit kind of sucks, and looks stupid. BUT, I am including a brand new CAI kit. The only problem w/ it is the bung on it for the IAT sensor is too small. It needs drilled out and tapped for the proper sized threads. Again, labor, no $$. Or just clean the filter on the home-made unit and live with it. - AIR pump took a dump (took the alternator out w/ it, which I replaced). Did the belt bypass mod. But the belt is .2" too short, so at idle it just slightly bottoms out the tensioner, causing a tapping noise (you can watch it do it under the hood). $20 fix. - Every once in a great while it will throw an SES light for a few minutes; something about the EGR system. Used to do it very frequently until I replaced the EGR valve, now rarely does it. I didn't feel it was worth fixing, and never looked into it further. - Car is probably do for plugs/cap/rotor/wires. Doesn't miss or have any associated problems, I'd just assume it is due sometime soon. Probably didn't need to even mention this, but I'm not trying to hide anything w/ the car. That's it. It was my daily driver until I got the Avalanche. My roomate owned it from 90k to 195k, I've owned it the rest of the time. The car is all highway miles; he was driving it 200 miles/day for quite a while. He had very few issues with it (replaced U-joint, tie rod end, waterpump). I've done the front brakes/rotors, alternator, EGR valve, fuel tank seal, and front wheel hubs. Alingment and A/C were serviced a couple years ago. Tranny, rear end, radiator, and I think brake fluid (I didn't do that one myself) are all fairly fresh. I have no clue what it runs, as it has never once seen a track. In all honesty, it hasn't seen WOT that many times...it's always been the daily driver, never the fast car. Car has plenty of chips/scratches/etc. that don't show up in pics...this isn't a show car. Just needs a little labor, and that's about it. Has always been VERY reliable. I'll throw in a Haynes manual too. Price: $3,000 FIRM. Don't offer me anything less, as I won't even consider it. I don't have to sell this car, but would LIKE to. Pictures: http://cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Mustang/

- Typical WOT take-off, but getting the boat on plane isn't a big deal w/ a tuber. - Slack in the rope is bad. When the boat takes up that slack at speed, it HURTS. - Know the hand signals. Thumb up for faster, down for slower, slicing at the neck to kill it, and twirling the hand is whipping the tuber around. - Smaller people = harder to knock off the tube. More throttle, turn harder. 2 tips for knocking someone difficult off: 1 - Get them mostly on one side of the boat outside the wake, go WOT and cut the boat HARD the other direction. This will whip them around pretty hard. 2 - Do several continuous circles until you can build up some good waves, cut it straight, go WOT and you can usually knock them off on the waves. - Have a good spotter. As a driver, don't spend all your time looking at the tuber. Spend your time watching where you are going, looking out for other boats and objects in the water. The spotter will tell you what to do. If you are just pulling kids or lame people, all you do is drive straight (though as a kid, I got pissed if people DIDN'T try their hardest to knock me off...and that still rings true today ). ** Tip for tall people - Your legs will tend to drag off the back of the tube a lot. If you do a LOT of tubing, do not just let your feet bounce in the water. This eventually = bruises on the top of your feet. Trust me, that sucks. That's about it. As far as knocking people off, the tube design has a lot to do w/ it as well. My tube is designed for more experienced riders; it's pretty hard to get onto, sits fairly high off the water, isn't huge in diameter, and isn't all that stable. But I'm all for the challenge, so I love it.

Way to not answer any of the question I asked. Which lights. Is it a Hitron, White Webstar, Black Webstar w/ 4 lights, or Black Webstar w/ 5 lights? You obviously don't know anything about it by what you are saying (as the data, or send/receive light depending on the modem will blink randomly for various reason I'm not getting into, and the PC light will blink at all times the computer or router is on), so I am asking the simple questions, then can troubleshoot right from here; not hard at all. I already told you I'd give the exact instructions on 1-button power if you would tell me what freaking remote you have. Then there is no channel 4 BS. I honestly can't make this any easier for you. IMO it sounds like you just want to bitch about something.

Tim posts on here from time to time, so if he wants to share, he will. I'm only going to say it's not stock, all motor, and can run 92 octane all day long. From the visuals on the outside, it's lowered w/ Z06 rims, GHL catback, !BSM's, slotted rotors w/ Hawk pads (anyone have a trick on making these pads NOT squeak; the spray stuff doesn't do shit). I'm silent on the deal beyond that. Bill, the problem was so freaking stupid. On the Vette shifters (his has a C6 shifter in it, soon to be swapped out for something better), the mounting holes for the assembly are slotted, so the linkage can be adjusted. Well, he slammed 2nd so hard on the 1-2 shift, that it pulled the whole assembly back. This caused the car not to go into 1st/3rd/5th without slamming it in there. This is due to the previous owner not torquing down the bolts enough. Pulled the console off, put it back where it was supposed to be, and all fixed. I fixed where the previous owner cracked the shifter boot while we were in there...I'm just glad someone that knows a lot about cars owns it now, as it needed some TLC (which luckily everything is taken care of now).

Don't need insurance. But boat insurance isn't all that expensive. I have full coverage on my boat, gear, and trailer, with the minimum deductable State Farm allows for boats, and it's $200/year.