Nitrousbird

You should be the last person to ever call someone's car a POS. Look at the hunk you are driving. Whoopee, an old Civic. Probably with a CAI and a fart cannon, that you have all these "big plans" for, that if by some miracle you completed, would net you some whopping high 14's and handle as poorly as it looks.

I like Armor All Interior. Not nearly as greasy as the regular Armor All stuff.

Seriously, I'd tell you to get off your high horse, but your horse is the short bus. My 86 CRX Si, fully fueled, 0.0 weight reduction mods, and even optioned w/ a power moonroof weighed in at exactly 2000lbs on a certified grain elevator scale (as in I weighed it, not this "internet says" bullshit). Do I want a cookie? Nope; hell, I never modded that car at all.....the potential just really wasn't there IMO. What you "plan" to do to your car means nothing. I swear every kid I come across with some old econo-box that has a couple bolt-on's always swears they are going to do some "LS swap w/ a turbo" or "I'm gonna put NAAAAWWWWZZZ on my B16AQELKFKLDS motor." They all say this....they never back it up w/ a little thing call action. I would LIKE to build a forged shortblock this winter. I'm not going to say I will be; if funds allow, I just may do so. See, this is a good example of what to say. Me building a shortblock is a realistic mod that would be the next logical step on my car's setup. Not out of this world or some far-reach, never going to happen event. Even then I'm not saying "when I do it," rather "if I do it." And then, I'm not going around bragging what the results will be if I do it and things turn out all good.

I saw your old black car yesterday, at a house right off of Gender.

Regardless, there were way to many sold here to be considered super rare. For example, there were only 1555 20th Anv. Turbo Trans Am's sold. These are very unique, collectiable, and desired cars. They sold more (comparatively) new, and are FAR harder to find in low mileage form than an ITR. Yet even one of those in the same form as this ITR won't go for 43k. Anyone who would pay anywhere CLOSE to that kind of money for that ITR deserves to get robbed.

When did neons ever look good???

Seems he is asking a bit too much for it.

Yes, he's had that car. Your point?

Trevor drove his 69 Firebird through there (since we live VERY close to Brice). He didn't exactly get a positive response from everyone....... I have seen a few cool Mopars so far. SRT-10 I drove by, a Daytona/clone (can't really tell). We raced a 440 6-pack Superbee a couple nights ago in the 69 too.

Please tell me you didn't get rid of your Camaro for that.

Didn't go anywhere, you just suck at the internet. And life.

I typed that and then locked the thread. It seems SOMEONE decided to unlock it and move it in here.

Ask Adam how his rear end has treated him this year.......... 9" > 12-bolt > 8.8" IMO. There are tons of very fast cars running 12-bolts. I'd much rather have my 33 spline, Eaton Posi 12-bolt over your 8.8" converted used rear-end. Now had there been a reasonable ABS option back when I bought my 12-bolt for the 9", I very well may have went for that instead. Swapable center sections are the goodness (I would have loved to have my current 3.73 posi setup for the street, then swap a 4.10 or 4.30 spool setup for the track).

WOW has speed channel on regular ol' basic cable. smile.gif Channel 70.

This thread is so done.

This thread is so done.

This thread is so done.

Now add some axles in there, and you are at $1400. Ouch (yes, you didn't pay those prices, but I'm just saying). A few hundred more bucks you can have a brand spanking new 12-bolt that is still guaranteed to be stronger than a beefed up 10-bolt. My 12-bolt by far was the best way to go. I've abused it a lot. Only problem I had was a wheel bearing go out on it; I don't believe they use that kind of bearing anymore, and it is an easy to access part on the rear that cost me $30 at Jegs; never had a problem since. M6 cars are hell on rear ends.

You honestly rebuilt a stock 10-bolt 5 times?? No where during that time did you think "maybe I shouldn't be doing this." Though you CAN beef up a stock 10-bolt, by the time you dump all that money into it (good axles, good posi, cover, girdle, plus a few other tricks) you have way too much money into the rear. Keep your eyes out on a used 12-bolt or 9". I ran lower 12's on my bone stock 10-bolt (are you running higher than 3.42's in your rear....that just compounds the problem). But I was only running Nittos and a soft clutch then. I knew not to beat on the rear end, so I upgraded to the 12-bolt before I broke it and sold my 10 bolt. I had a 12-bolt under my car before I even had headers on it.

God, looking at your taxes reminds me of my taxes here. (as mine are very similar to yours). Nice that they have went up $300 in 2 years, yet we STILL have to pay school income taxes. Reynoldsburg is definately a nice place to live though. Sounds like a great deal though; when Greg was doing comps for my refinance, he saw homes in my neighborhood that were smaller split levels, only 1 car garages, and sold for 120k.

The most expensive way to build a car up is to pay someone to do it. Seriously, get some tools and work on it yourself. There are TONS of DSM resources out there, use them.

I think it is only right to do these as pics...these vehicles are in order as I purchased them, and I only own the last 3 now. First car, I don't have a pic of, so I stole one off the internet. Mine was an 84 Renault Alliance, 2 door, 5 speed, 1.4L, based out, slow as hell joke: http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/pictures/Renault%20Alliance%20Front.jpg Next is another pic I stole, though this one looks just like my 86 CRX Si did; owned it from 95-97: http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/pictures/86%20CRX%20Front.jpg 92 Camaro RS; 3.1L V6, 5-speed, T-tops (sorry, couldn't find my normal sized pics): http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/pictures/Camaro%20Rear.jpg http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/pictures/Camaro%20Side.jpg 94 Formula....most people have seen/seen pics of my car, so I figured I would dig up an OLD pic: http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/pictures/Firebird-Track-2-Medium.jpg 93 S-Blazer, no options except the CPI motor, now wrecked in my back yard: http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/Wrecked%20Blazer/Passenger%20Side.jpg 95 GMC Jimmy, 4x4, most options, my daily: http://www.cofba.org/users/nitrousbird/GMC%20Jimmy/Front%20Driver%20Side.jpg

The slow motion farting sounds were awesome!

Were you running Win98 before?? If so, there's a common problem w/ Win98 where this happens; I have the fix for it (basically delete a few registry files and rebuild DUN).

A 406 w/ your stock LS1 heads and an LS6 cam != 500RWHP, or anywhere near it. Big, fat torque curve for sure, but not hitting the 500RWHP mark. That's all in the heads/cam. I think you are also underestimating some other items. That 300HP direct port kit is gonna rack you at least 2 grand (you'll either need to have a great fuel system or a stand alone for the nitrous side). That tranny + everything to convert it isn't going to be cheap. Ask Jason Fetter, it's not a budget as you might think, since you don't want to just toss a stock TH400 in there and hope for the best. You are severly over-simplfying things.....if low 9's @ 150 were that simple, every Tom, Dick, and Henry would have a 9 second LS1. IMO, work with what you have, and grow from there. Why not build a bottom end and run more boost?? I'm personally not a big fan of the iron block conversion (IMO it's a step backwards), but is more budget oriented...though you could just run a stroker crank on your aluminum block and not re-sleeve; you just don't have to go insane w/ the cubes).