evan9381

We did a cruise in 2015 that hit St. Maarten, Antigua, St. Thomas, and Nassau. I thought St. Maarten was great, then when we got to Antigua, I was like "whoa, this is even nicer"...then we got to St. Thomas, and I was like "fuck, this is amazing. At this rate, Nassau will be insane!". My gf and her folks told me Nassau sucked, and they were right. A year later we went to St. Thomas and spent 6 days there. Idk if I'd do another cruise. Ours was cheap because her parents booked the same cruise after we did, and they ended up paying for A LOT of stuff. I think we were out of pocket like $400 for the week outside of the actual cruise. I'd say just go to St. Thomas for a week. Airfare is cheap ($600 round trip/person), you can probably find a place for $250-300/night, and there is PLENTY to do on the island. You're just kinda confined to the ship for a good chunk of a cruise. Stops in port were only like 8-10 hours for us so it gave some time to see some of each island, but not a whole lot.

I know every case is different, but what is the going rate on PDR these days? Do the 2nd, 3rd, 4th dents get cheaper than the 1st? Ive got a few i want to get done but have been lazy.

I've tried to do stuff in the past, looked up what to use, it just never seems to make a difference. Maybe it's just that the soil around my house sucks. i don't know. the back yard grows pretty well but the front, which everyone sees, is terrible. I really just don't want to deal with it much more than mowing/trimming/watering. I've gotten lazy.

My yard looks like garbage. I need to get it looking good again. I'm thinking it probably needs to be aerated and overseeded and start getting some good grass growing and block out all of the other bullshit that is in there. Neighbor wants to get his yard done too, so I figured I'd look for someone who can do both yards at once and we can split the cost. They're not large areas. Maybe 1/8 acre lots, and the houses take up a good chunk.

Must be on the MCGC project. We got an email at the corporate office today.

how long do the batteries in these things last?

Probably not that many running around...especially in Columbus. Lol

Jakob Phelps - ReliElectric 614-374-8910. Tell him Evan sent you

This. I left for work at 6:15ish. I live of Morse, doing above the speed limit to 270. Took 270S, from Morse to 670 it was fine. Got past 670, started seeing brakes, slow to 50ish. First saw a van off the right. Thought why is everyone slowing for one van? Get around that bend a little more, the car ahead of me starts braking a little harder, I start to brake and start sliding. Luckily the two lanes beside me were empty so I started to slide/get over. Well then I realize that in the lane I'm now in is a 2 car accident that must've just happened because cops weren't even there yet, and two cars are smashed up just sitting there. Luckily I was able to stop with a few car lengths to spare. Once traffic cleared so I could go around it, I hit the gas and even in AWD started sliding again. TL:DR - it wasn't just a little snow. there was black ice everywhere and the clusterfuck was warranted this time.

I might have to see if you can do anything for mine. Someone hit me a few months back and they replaced one headlight and it looks brand new. The other has ~125k miles on it. I got a restoration kit and did the sanding and polishing, but I can still see a difference. I can't tell if it's inside the housing or if I just didn't do a good enough job.

ding ding ding. TL:DR - avoid debt settlement companies. I used to do first party collections and the number of people who tried to avoid us by using these companies wouldn't listen when we tried to tell them how they were getting screwed. tried to explain the settlement companies business model and how we don't work with them, but no one wanted to listen. Example - you have $3,000 balance with us. I dealt with charged off debt, so there were no more late fees/interest from us. Maybe you don't have 60% to settle it right now ($1800). We would set you up with smaller payments to hold it in house. (We would only hold accounts for 3-6 months and if nothing was paid, we'd send it to a collection agency. It wasn't worth our time to continue to try to collect a charged off debt if we're not getting anywhere. Well, the agency will then tack on another 30% for their fee. Your $3000 debt is now $3900). Make those smaller payments with us, say $50-100/mo, and then in 6 or 12 months, you've paid down a chunk and you can see what the settlement is at that time. Pay $50/mo x 6 months = $300. Debt is now $2700, 60% settlement is $1620. So overall, you pay $1920, which isn't as good as the original offer of $1800, but you got an extra 6 months to collect that money. The shitty part about settlement companies is that they tell you to stop paying on your credit cards, but since the credit card companies usually don't work with the settlement companies, they keep charging you interest and late fees and if it goes long enough, they'll write your debt off and you'll have a chargeoff (R9) on your credit report, which is the worst thing second to bankruptcy that you can have. I had customers tell me that the settlement companies charged them an enrollment fee (0 of this went to debt), and then a monthly payment. So lets take that same $3000. They charge you $400 enrollment fee. Then lets's say your monthly payment is $200. Well, maybe $75 of that goes to the company's pocket, and $125 goes into an account that accumulates to settle your debt. They can't settle your debt until there are enough funds. The lowest we ever settled for was 50% ($1500 in this case), but that was extreme cases, VERY old debt, extreme hardship, someone who is planning to file bankruptcy and we'd rather have 50% than 0%...usually it was 60-70%...but let's use 50%. So setting back $125/mo, it'll take 12 months to accumulate $1500 or 50%. Well by 12 months in, your account would have already gone to one agency, MAYBE even a second agency if agency #1 couldn't collect in 6 months. So now you're looking at a $3900 balance (original debt + agency fee)...can't settle with your $1500 now, right? because that's less than 40%. But here is the kicker. You've now paid a $400 enrollment fee and $75x12 months = $900, so $1300 in fees, just to the settlement company in fees, and $1500 that's sitting in an account accumulated for your debt, and not a penny of that $2800 has gone to your credit cards. Now take those same payments ($400 enrollment, $200/mo) and lets see how you can resolve it with the CC co directly. Pay $50 month 1. save your $350 towards your settlement. $50 month 2-12, and save the extra $150/mo). In 12 months, assuming you haven't settled it yet, you've now paid $600, and you have $2,000 in your "settlement account" set off to the side. So you've got a $2400 balance and $2k to negotiate a settlment. If you called me up with a $2400 balance and said "hey can I pay $1400?" I'd do whatever I could to get it approved. You've paid each month like you said, you've already paid us $600, $1400 is a good settlement. That's just an example on one card with a relatively low balance. Say you turn in a handful of cards to them, and maybe one has a $700 balance. Maybe they can get one of them settled for you because it has a relatively low balance. well your other cards just get stuck on the back burner, not getting paid. let one of those big balance cards get too far behind and find yourself getting served a lawsuit for the balance. I did it all the time. It's been years since I worked there (2010), but I believe our requirements to forward accounts to our attorneys for suit was a balance of maybe $2500 and we just needed to verify that you were employed or owned a home. both were super duper easy. A call to your HR department or even calling you at work and you answering was enough. property we could do by finding a mortgage on your credit report or looking at the county assessor/auditor website. Settlement companies can't do anything to stop these. They'll be happy to take your money though. If you actually need help, look into CCCS programs. they're non profit and credit card companies will actually work with them. we had a separate team that only handled CCCS accounts. or, just call your creditors and work with them directly. they usually have options available. whatever you do, avoid debt settlement like the plague if you get behind. there was a period that I was out of work for like 4 months and saw a posting here for jobs at a certain debt settlement company and even hurting for work for that long, I couldn't convince myself to even entertain the thought of working there because I knew how much they fucked people.

Bump. $8750

Doug Armstrong. Tell him Evan sent you. 614-917-9811

I thought the same thing. LOL Definitely wasn't me. It's my sisters ex-husband's, she just got it in a divorce. They lived in Lancaster near Rising Park, so if that's your neighborhood and you saw a fat guy with glasses driving it, it was probably her ex.

Update - Jeep is in Columbus and can be seen off Noe Bixby in the area between Broad and Main at my dad's place. He said it looks like her ex has some loose wires and doesn't know anything about cars, so he is planning to have someone look at it and make sure everything is as it should be. My dad is having knee surgery either Friday or Monday but I can meet you at his place in the evenings. I work near his house and can be over after 4, or preferably after 6 so I can get some OT hours in

I'll see what I can do.

She's got a family car now and I'm 2 months away from having no car payment, so I'll pass. Lol

Sounds like it's time for another one!

From my sister - "It has chrome on it too that'll get ruined if you mud run in it..it was made to go to car shows. It is very capable of mudding but it's a vintage vehicle with high end parts. Also It has a top."

My sister got this as part of a divorce. She has kids to raise and this was a stupid purchase by her ex. I'm only sharing what she posted. If you are interested, I'll get you in touch with her. It is currently in Lancaster but she is working on getting it up to Columbus. This was my winter project last year. I purchased this Willys locally (Lancaster) in August 2016. It now has many, Many, Many new high quality parts. It actually has $4,171 worth of new parts installed (see below). I also have all of the receipts for the parts on hand. I have only driven Jeep maybe 60 miles in the year since purchasing as I just finished all of the work to the Jeep in July. All work done was done properly and without cutting corners. This jeep is very nice, runs and drives great, and is very powerful. We are not in a hurry to sell this Jeep and are in no way interested in a trade, so please do not ask. SPECIFICATIONS New All Steel Body 305 c.i. V8 (Originally from 1977 Chevrolet Camaro) HEI Distributor and Ignition Power Steering Muncie M21 Close Ratio 4 Speed Transmission (Very Sought after 1964-1965 Aluminum Case Version) Dana 44 Rear Axle 5.44 Gearing with a Spartan Rear Locker Dana 27 Front Axle Dana 18 Transfer Case High Back Adjustable Bucket Seats Bestop Soft Top with Soft Doors Overall Lift: 10 inches with BF Goodrich Mud Terrain KO2 Tires 35"x12.50" Upgraded 11 Inch Drum Brakes NEW PARTS Rugged Ridge Leaf Springs and Shackle Lift (2 inches): $475 Rugged Ridge Body Lift (4 inches): $170 Spartan Locker for Rear Axle: $300 New Brakes and Brake Lines (Front and Back): $180 Delco Alternator (Advance Auto, July 2017): $34 CJ2a Steel Replacement Gas Tank (Kaiser Willys, September 2016): $162 CJ2a Fuel Tank Sending Unit and Hardware (Kaiser Willys, September 2016): $45 BF Goodrich Mud Terrain KO2 Tire 35" x 12.50" (4 Wheel Parts, September 2016): $290 Duralast Saginaw Style Power Steering Box p/n 7536 (Autozone, October 2016): $152 Advance Adapters Chrome Long Tube Headers p/n: 717020 (Summit, October 2016): $320 Duralast Starter p/n: DLG8429S (Autozone, May 2017): $90 Edelbrock Black Signature Series Valve Covers (Advance Auto, November 2016): $41 K&N Air Filter (Advance Auto, August 2017): $54 K&N X-Stream Air Flow Top (Jeg's, August 2017): $70 Derale 17" High Output Electric Fan (Jeg's, July 2017): $143 Jeg's Aluminum Radiator Shroud Kit (Jeg's, July 2017): $81 Jeg's Aluminum Radiator Mounting Kit (Jeg's, April 2017): $40 Jeg's Rubber Radiator Tank Mounting Pads (Jeg's, July 2017): $21 Jeg's Aluminum Double Pass Radiator 22"x19" GM Style (Jeg's, April 2017): $170 Jeg's Zinc Sacrificial Anode for Radiator (Jeg's, April 2017): $14 Jeg's Black Anodized Aluminum 16# Radiator Cap (Jeg's, April 2017): $21 RPC Polished Aluminum O-Ring Style Water Neck (Jeg's, May 2017): $21 Dex-Cool Antifreeze/Coolant (Autozone, July 2017): $38 Jeg's High Flow Water Pump (Jeg's May 2017): $63 Water Wetter Super Coolant Additive (Jeg's, July 2017): $10 Jeg's Chrome 2 Groove Crank Pulley (Jeg's, July 2017): $39 Upper Radiator Hose (Advance Auto, July 2017): $18 90 Weight Mineral (Hydraulic) Oil for Transfer Case (TSC, July 2017): $19 75W-120W GL-1 Gear Oil for Front and Rear Differential (NAPA, July 2017): $25 80W-90W GL-4 Gear oil for Muncie M-21 Transmission (Advance Auto, July 2017): $14 New Willys CJ2a 12v Gauges (eBay, November 2016): $60 Hurst White 4 Speed Shifter Knob (Jeg's, November 2016): $31 Stant "Superstat" 160 degree Thermostat (Advance Auto, June 2017): $9 LED Taillight/Turn Signal Assemblies (NAPA, January 2017): $54 All New Color Coded Copper Stranded Wiring (Lowes, January 2017): $47 Heavy Duty Clevis' for Front Bumper Towing (O'Reilly's, November 2016): $42 Chrome Valve Cover T-Bar Bolts and Hold Downs (O'Reilly's, November 2016): $56 Power Steering Fluid (Advance Auto, November 2016): $9 12v Ballast Resistor (Advance Auto, November 2016): $9 (2) Cherry Bomb 12" Glass Packs 2.50" Inside Diameter (Autozone, November 2016): $53 Steel Power Steering Line (O'Reilly's, November 2016): $6 Edelbrock Black Signature Series Oil Breather Cap (Advance Auto, November 2016): $14 Chevrolet Bowtie Air Cleaner Wingnut (Advance Auto, November 2016): $14 (8) AC Delco Spark Plugs (Autozone, September 2016): $20 Steel Power Steering Compression Union Fitting (Advance Auto, November 2016): $4 Steel Power Steering Line Fittings (Advance Auto, November 2016): $15 (2) Tubular Heat Shields for Fuel Lines and Wires (O'Reilly's, October 2016): $35 Header Flange to Muffler Adapters (Advance Auto, September 2016): $35 Chrome Alternator Bracket (O'Reilly's, September 2016): $18 Tailgate hinges (eBay, December 2016): $43 Steel Header Gaskets (Advance Auto, August 2016): $18 VHT High Temperature Red Engine Enamel (Autozone, September 2016): $15 Mr. Gasket Cork Valve Cover Gaskets (Autozone, October 2016); $16 Galvanized Steel Angle (TSC, May 2017): $8 Grade 8 Bolts, Nuts, and Washers (TSC, May 2017): $4 CJ2a Headlight Control Switch (Kaiser Willys, September 2016): $27 CJ2a Rubber Gas Tank Grommet (Kaiser Willys, September 2016): $10 CJ2a Parking Light Lenses, Bezels, and Hardware (Kaiser Willys, September 2016): $87 CJ2a Parking Light Bulbs (Kaiser Willys, September 2016): $11 CJ2a Dashboard Data Plates and Hardware (Kaiser Willys, September 2016): $55 CJ2a VIN Registration Data Plate (Kaiser Willys, September 2016): $16 CJ2a Steel Black Powder Coated Footman Loop (Kaiser Willys, September 2016): $5 CJ2a Chrome Hood Latches (Kaiser Willys, September 2016): $17 CJ2a Headlight Dimmer Switch and Hardware (Kaiser Willys, September 2016): $37 CJ2a Headlight Bucket Spring (Kaiser Willys, September 2016): $5 Chrome Headlight Bezels (eBay, September 2016): $42 Power Steering Belt (TSC, May 2017): $12 Alternator Belt (TSC, May 2017): $12 Water Pump/Crank Belt (TSC, May 2017): $12 Water Resistant Fuse Box (Advance Auto, December 2016): $8 Sheet Steel Utilized Within New Dash and Other Fabrication (Ray-Mar Steel): $60

Phones don't get discounted with a plan like the old days, so you're going to end up paying for it either way. I'm grandfathered in to an unlimited data plan so I always have to pony up for a new phone when I'm ready to switch. It sucks, but having unlimited data is worth it.

because that's either A) they have a 0% (or near 0%) interest loan. $1200 x 84mo = $100,800 or B) they're paying say 5% interest but put $15k down and have an $85k loan. If you get a car loan for 4% or whatever rates are right now, it's going to be the same way. Interest is charged on the balance of the loan, so it's always going to be higher at first and near 0 at the end. Go to bankrate.com and look up a loan calculator, plug in some numbers and then look at the amortization table. It'll show you what you're paying in principle and interest each month. You'll see how at the start the interest is high and the principle is low and gradually it flips. I think my mortgage right now applies about $110 to principle and $300ish to interest, in 10 years it'll be about 50/50, and towards the last couple years it'll probably be like $350 in principle and $60 in interest. The nice thing too is you can plug in what your current balance is, rate, and it'll give you the option to say "if I pay $XXX extra each month" and it'll show you how it'll change the payoff date.

If you pay biweekly (basically 13 payments per year), it'll shave 7 years off a 30 year loan. My mortgage is like $646/mo with taxes and interest and I pay $750. 2 years ago it was like $735/mo then I refinanced from a 5% loan to 3.875. I took out about 5k for new windows and doors and even paying the same $750, it'll be paid off quicker than if I kept the 5% loan. I think what I calculated was that I'll pay it off this new 30 year/3.875 mortgage in 21 years at this rate, where I would have still had 23 years left on my old mortgage. And I got new windows and doors. Sounded like a win-win to me. Marc did me well.

Are you saying that the follow up visits I had should/could have been covered under the calendar year that I broke my leg (2015) and not when I actually saw him (2016)? I actually didn't have much at all, so it didn't hurt my wallet too bad. I had a follow up visit with xray and staple removal (i think that was the first visit) around 1/8 (2 weeks out), saw him around 4 weeks later, and then 6 weeks after that. Fankhauser did an amazing job putting my leg back together. He told me if I wanted to go do PT, maybe just go to 1 visit to learn some exercises, otherwise just getting back to walking and getting on my bike to get movement into my leg would be sufficient. 2 years later and I'm still doing good. I need to work on my flexibility, but I never did that before so I don't think it's got a ton to do with the fx. same with running. I wasn't a runner before and I still can't.