craig71188

Sorry, sold it - lock it up!

Autoweek (now every two weeks) - racing coverage-actually close to the race dates across all types of motorsport. Road tests of U.S. and intereresting euro/asian only market cars occasionally. Some good columnists along with the "But Wait There's More" back page of interesting and humorous auto related stuff. SportsCar - yea, comes with the SCCA subscription, lots of SCCA related coverage (but yes that usually menas Miata stuff fairly regularly

It's suprising your manufacturer does not have a specific procedure for their pads. Here are instructions for two other performance pad manufacturer's on their ceramic compound pads. Both are similar and should get the job done. HAWK After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete SATISFIED For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads — Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down. Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface. During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.

They usually want them as wide as possible to get light out to the sides of the car. I would try them where you have planned. If you don't get quite enough light out to the sides, go ahead and angle them out a little bit. The compromise is you won't get as much light "down the road". It really depends on if you want them primarily for driving lights-filling in ahead of you, or cornering lights-to see the edge of the road/around corners. Part of the issue will also be the fact you typically won't get as much light out of a small lamp as you would a comparable large lamp....

As I said, that was my preference for race applications/driving lamps (no oncoming traffic) - we did little with fog lamps so..... Per Hella on these lamps they recommend 4" below the height of the lamps at 25' from the wall. Get to full instructions from here: http://www.hella.com/produktion/Optilux/WebSite/AuxiliaryLights/Support/Support.jsp

I like the "level surface" to any flat surface - 10' is good, a little farther is better (I have been over 100' for driving lights when aiming). I measure up from the ground to the center of the light - aim for the same height or just below on the flat surface for the brightest part of the beam. If they are to be driving lights, I also shoot for straight ahead - if they are meant to be "cornering lights" (road racing at night to help pick up the edge of the pavement/apexes) - I will angle the very slightly outward. Keep in mind if you choose the right lenses - the lense pattern will give you the correct light pattern ahead of you - this is why I like Hella, they make lights for various applications/light patterns (besides the quality). These are my personal preferences and the set up I have used for endurance racing cars I have been responsible for. Your preferences for street driving may differ.

Hella: http://www.myhellalights.com/ Excellent quality - used in all kinds of racing applications for years.

Clay, Happy Thanksgiving to you too! I know I sprayed it on the one trailer - I don't think I had to thin it (old junk gun I just used for primer) - but I'm sure it can be - just ask the Sherwin Williams guys. You'll probably have to talk to the ones in Grandview as they are the "industrial coatings" guys.

The best success I've had is wire brushing as much stuff off as possible, then use a zinc chromate self etching primer (Sherwin Williams used to sell this in "rattle cans", but now it's only available in quarts). I have found DupliColor has a self etching primer (found it at Advance). It does not give contents - but is the same putrid green as the old zinc chromate I used to get so I'm givine it a try. I top this off with Sherwin-Williams Industrial paint. I've done a few old trailers and some frames this way and it has always seemed to last.

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96922 Still sitting here....

Nice single jet ski / pwc trailer by DixieCraft. Good paint, lights and tires. Plate shows this as manufactured 2/94 with a 500 lb capacity, 740 lb GVWR, 12x3.75 rims mounting a 4.80 x 12 tire. I acquired this trailer with the purchase of two skis on a double trailer and as such, I have no need for it. Asking $325 OBO Pics are here: http://columbus.craigslist.org/boa/2688620137.html

As mentioned before, yes, they are "old school". Consider the time when they were popular, mechanical fuel pumps were the norm, and if you ran electric pumps, they were regulated to 3-7 lbs MAX for carburetors. At these low pressures along with big motors stuffed into small bodies, you had a lot of heat problems. Cooling the fuel kept it from "boiling" in the lines. Fast forward to today - modern fuel injection systems with their higher pressures typically don't have the vapor lock problem. That said, they do also add more heat to the fuel themselves. The fuel is the "coolant" for the new electric pumps and in the case with return systems, every time you circulate the fuel through the engine bay you add heat. It's not a big issue, but it does add some heat nonetheless. Running a cool can allows the fuel to stay cool (denser) and as such can make more power, help to cool the chambers and add some protection against detonation. Is it going to add "big power"? No, but if you're marginal on tuning/detonation it will offer some protection and may give you a little edge on very hot days. Many years ago at the 24 hour race at Nelson Ledges, one of the top Camaro teams was actually packing their 11 gallon dump cans of fuel on large trash cans filled with ice. It was a VERY hot weekend and they were fighting motor running hot, some detonation and loss of power. Adding ice cold (literally) fuel kept them going to the finish...

Not an artistic bone in my body - so I married one. My wife has a shop on etsy.com - original art and quilts/wallhangings/table runners. http://www.etsy.com/shop/MoranArtandQuilts

Not going to go to Florida - I am planning to check out the IMRI show that is now in Indy though... http://www.imis-indy.com/

Sold - lock it up!

Sorry you can't make it. Generally you'll find the SCCA course we run are more open and typically a bit faster than the Miata Club courses (based on what I've heard and knowing some of the lots they run on). Stand by for next season's schedule in the spring...

Last autocross of the season at NTR is a go! You have up until 8:00 am Friday morning to pre-register and there will be walk up registration Saturday morning. Gates/Registratio will open at 8:00 am Saturday. Attendence looks a little light as some folks have conflicts and others are travelling to the last tour event in Nashville soooo... It should be a good day to get in a lot of runs before winter sets in!

Sold - lock it up.

If they are so pissed off about their college loans - why don't they go protest in front of the overpriced college that "sold" them the education that won't get them hired? They chose to borrow money, Obama's administration has taken over the school loan programs - why aren't they protesting at the White House? (Oh, yea, sorry, it's not really about that - it's about socialism!)

No, not in KY - that much wire in the open just tacked up would have been stolen and scrapped inside of a week!

Page 1 - saving a spot for the fiery ride over the cliff.....

Never try and argue with idiots - they will just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience and numbers. RIP Dan, thoughts and prayers to your family.

It's one of my old karts - 2000 Reynard Warlock chassis - AJ will need to weigh in on the 125 specs (Honda). Yes, it is possible to swap from an 80cc to a 125cc - the 80cc is also legal for SCCA, just not real competitive.

My daughter is currently fostering a 5 year old terrier mix - about 30 lbs (she needs to loose some weight) that needs a new home. Very loving dog, doesn't do well with cats or small pets - fine with a larger dog. She will come with a crate, food, collars, toys, tags, up to date on shots and all her medical records - pretty much the "full set up". Please PM me for more details! http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4018/dsc09269i.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9982/31288220749759894761097.jpg By jcbutt at 2011-10-16

Two more weeks and I plan to go work on getting as rusty as AJ :doh: