walther_gsp

Most CCW classes are nothing but beginners courses with the law and maybe some defensive concepts thrown in. Too many new/inexperience shooters to do otherwise, at least in my 6 years or so of teaching them. Take him to the class, it'll be fine. I've had several students bring older teens to the classes and had them participate fully without issue.

If its a 308 5r, then its all stainless with a 24" barrel. Should be a black w/green speckles HS precision stock with palm swell. Otherwise its another varmint model of some sort. Either way, a good starter gun. However, the 5r's generally have better barrels. Mine averages ~.25moa out of the box while flounder's required some work from our gunsmith to get under .5moa.

I know its a good platform, its what I shoot long range with. The SS Milspec (also referred to as teh rem 5r) in 308 comes in 24", 300 winmag is 26". The only non customshop guns from rem with 5r rifling besides the SS milspec is the VTR. So I take it yours is a winmag then?

1165 and it was closer to 25mph winds at the time, and in a down pour. Good shooting on his part. You sure thats a 5R? Those have always been 24", unless you have one of those goofy triangle barreled VTR's with 5R rifling.

well if Flounder is going to be a dick and not post pics of his build when done, maybe I'll take some pics of the AR tonight if I go pickup my new glass.

FYI, you can shoot to 1000+ yards with plenty of cartridges. Most guys that are doing it, are either shooting a factory match load with a decent bullet, or a handload with a good bullet. A high BC, match bullet and the right amount of velocity is all it takes. Those that say that a 308 (or .30-06 for that matter) aren't suited to it are making poor ammo choices. Even with match ammo, there are poor choices. IE: a 168SMK based load in the 308 is going to have issues being stable past 800 yards, but a 175smk, 155 scenar, 178 amax, etc... will all perform well out to 1200. That said, look at the savage 10 series or the remington's with the varmint contour in a caliber you can find Black Hills, Federal, or Hornady match ammo for, if you are looking for a beginner long range rig that will have some semblance of precision out of the box.

Honestly, thats a good way to go for your first AR. Especially if its going to be a plinker/zombie gun. Detailed instructions for assembly of the lower can be found in the Build It Yourself section of AR15.com. All you'll need is a set of brass punches and some patience. I'd also recommend ordering a spare front take down pin spring and detent, just in case.

Maybe thats a suppressor industry level/goal. For some reason 144 sticks out in my head. Suppressors generally sound crappy with audio recordings. In person its completely different. The DB rating is just measuring peak pressure of the sound, but tone, duration etc.. that all makes an impact on how it sounds to the human ear, but isn't necessarily picked up by the mic. Some of it is also they do stuff in an indoor range and you are hearing the bullets hit the target too.

Not that I don't think those dudes are a bunch of homos, but it is "silenced". While the legal term, per the NFA, is silencer, the proper term is suppressor. It suppresses, not eliminates, the muzzleblast and the report of the shot. Thus, if it reduces it, its working. That said, 144 db ain't anything to write home about. Your average 308 bolt gun with a can is running 128-132db (using supersonic ammo) depending on barrel length/suppressor. Not sure what those numbers are with subsonic ammo. Edit: and I think 144 is the OSHA limit for "hearing safe"

I still think he's using his as an excuse.

He does cerakote for metal parts. Email him for pricing on a single part like that.

No, its true. It's a Pre-86 DS. Hence the higher price because no demo letter is required and you can keep it when you give up the license. Post 86 require a demo letter and must be sold/destroyed if you give up the SOT. No go call Mark and tell him to buy it. Edit - Pre86 dealer samples were guns that weren't importable after GCA of 68, unless for LE/Mil sales. It is not a semi auto converted before 86, but a factory gun imported. Due to the fact that it was added to the registry before 86, makes it semi-eligible for individual ownership, hence dealers can keep them if their license expires, but any transfer is only a form 3 to a dealer or form 5 to a .gov agency

First two are dealer samples, no dice unless you are an SOT

Mike, for stripped stuff, keep this in mind. For the most part, there are only 4 machine shops that are actually making the uppers out of a forging. They do this per each "manufacturer's specs" under a variance from the ATF for that 07 FFL. I think there was a recent thread on Arfcom that listed which ones were make at the same shops. Basically, any stag, mega, RRA, spikes, etc.... lowers are all 99% the same. The exceptions are for some of the billet stuff and the stuff thats by design non-standard.

Nothing fun (gunwise) is cali legal it seems.

The hardest part of concealing any firearm is the grip, barrel length is more of a comfort/convenience thing. That said, a fullsize 1911 isn't terrible to conceal, especially given its "thinner" dimensions. The biggest advantage you can give yourself is a good belt (stiffer the better) and a quality holster (a $20 uncle mikes isn't going to secure or conceal the gun as well as a Fist, Comptac, Tucker, Milt sparks etc.. holster). As far as 1911 size, the 3" will be lighter, have a smaller grip frame to conceal, etc... My dad recently bought a kimber for ccw, an ultra CDP, and it was a shooter for sure. I double tapped rounds into the same hole at 21 ft pretty consistently. However, 3" 1911s are generally finicky compared to the fullsize. My dad's didn't run for shit, the extractor tension was jacked up from the factory, burrs on the slide rails etc... Took me 2 hours,500 rounds (after it had a 500 round break in), and tearing it apart about 10 times to adjust the extractor to get it to run right. This was only the second kimber I've seen that didn't run for shit, but a buddy that owned a range for a while said it was pretty common on the ones built in the last few years, especially the 3". That said, I'm looking to switch to a 3" for my carry gun.

No, you do not need a store front. That all depends on local zoning ordinances allowing a business from a residence. However, you must be engaged in the activity for profit. Lots of guys think they'll get one to augment their collections. Renewal is every 3 years. Can't remember the cost. SOT is renewed every year at $500 or $1000 for an SOT2 (only applies if you have an 07 or 10 fll). That said, if you have to ask, it may not be for you.

Fill out form. Write check for $200. Hurry up and wait.

FYI the "nice" nikon's are over a grand. The usable ones are still in the $400 territory. Does it need top end glass, certainly not. I'm using a budget scope and shooting out to 1200 yards with ease on my 308. I've outshot guys with more money in their scope than I had in my rifle, scope, rings, bipod, and suppressor. That said, why buy an accurate rifle and then handicap yourself with shit glass. Buying a slightly more expensive scope and you are getting better quality glass, better reticles, adjustments that actually track properly, better eye relief, and will hold zero better.

Hardly. Heaven forbid we mention a decent, affordable scope that costs more than $100. Sorry, but your tasco's, and lower cost bushnells, simmons and the like are shit scopes.

Honestly, Robbinsville kinda blows. I stay up in Alcoa, TN. Better access to "civilization" and the ride to the gap is about the same. There are a couple nice chain hotels right on 129 and even our resident racist asian (jbot) approves of.

You have no idea. Decent LR scopes are about a grand. I have a low end one on my 308. My precision AR will have decent. Good gets in the 2k range. There are scopes out there in the 3k+ range.

Also, I have in my possession, a 30mm vortex crossfire that I'll let go to the highest bidder. A certain mod may or may not try to hunt you down to get it back though.

The .17hmr is a fine small varmint cartridge, assuming you are under 200y, it should take down a coyote. Also, SWFA has a special version of the scope Kawi and flounder mentioned with a 1" tube vs the 30mm (basically means less overall elevation adjustment) for $99. It's a special run that Vortex does for them. If you needed more elevation to hit the max range of the 17hmr (not likely, but possible), you can get 20moa angled bases for a lot of the popular rimfires these days.

2 Things. 1) The statement about rounds smaller than 30 cal not doing well in the wind is not accurate. Without a long, in depth discussion of ballistics, just leave it that bullet selection/velocity are important in any cartridge. As an example, 260's typically beat 308s on wind even at extended distances. 2) Mil-dots aren't for mil-spec ammo and war targets. Historically, they were used for ranging targets. Scopes with Mil dots, mil hash marks, moa hash marks, etc... can be quite useful for hunting, if you know the ballistics of your cartridge. The scope on my 308 has mil and half mil hash marks. Using those, I can use those for exact hold over values out past 500 yards without have to adjust my elevation, pretty handy for hunting if you ask me. Nevermind the fact that many "hunting" scopes have reticles with features used for range estimation. If anything, the downside to Mildots is it is sometimes harder for folks to pick up math wise vs MOA/minutes, and outside of newer tactical scopes, the reticle was often in mils/mildots and the scope adjustments were in minutes, causing conversion headaches.