Painting my track bike questions

[donkason]

I'm putting my 750 back together and have all the fiberglass work done from laying it down last year. It is an ugly gray color now and I figure it is time to spice it up while I'm at it. The current paint sticks well but has a few runs in it. I plan on rattle canning it and doing some pin striping/masking to make it a little different. I'm a noob at paint so I need some advice. I don't know if I need to scuff it, hit it with primer, then paint/clear or can I just scuff the current paint and go right to laying the base coat? Do I sand all the old paint off and start from scratch?

Any advice on this would be great as far as sanding, grits, prep, etc.

I've read a ton of stuff online but everybody has a different opinion. I'm not looking for perfection since it will likely go down again.

Thanks!!!!

[blue03636]

I would at least sand and primer it first. The primer will allow a better surface for the paint to stick to. If you just want a easier job you don't have to sand through the old paint.

[serpentracer]

it really depends how well the current paint is. if it's not cracking, flaking, peeling etc, then all you need to do is wet sand it with 400. if it's got issues sand it all the way out in that spot that has issues.

painting fiberglass is one of the best substrates to paint. paint sticks very well to it.

primer is a must for real auto grade paints to hide the bare fiberglass spots. if not you'll see it through the paint and the colors will be different too. for rattle can it's a waste of money. rattle can paint is pretty cheap and hides better than auto grade paint does. so it's a lot more forgiving with shitty prep work.

if you were looking for a factory grade paint finish I would suggest you sand and primer the whole thing and not use rattle can paint. because even paint pro can't lay spray can paint down and make it look as good as a novice using auto grade paint and a paint gun can. (it's not the user it's the paint quality)

Edited April 28, 2013 by serpentracer

[ohdaho]

I say cover the entire bike in duct tape.

[donkason]

it really depends how well the current paint is. if it's not cracking, flaking, peeling etc, then all you need to do is wet sand it with 400. if it's got issues sand it all the way out in that spot that has issues.

painting fiberglass is one of the best substrates to paint. paint sticks very well to it.

primer is a must for real auto grade paints to hide the bare fiberglass spots. if not you'll see it through the paint and the colors will be different too. for rattle can it's a waste of money. rattle can paint is pretty cheap and hides better than auto grade paint does. so it's a lot more forgiving with shitty prep work.

if you were looking for a factory grade paint finish I would suggest you sand and primer the whole thing and not use rattle can paint. because even paint pro can't lay spray can paint down and make it look as good as a novice using auto grade paint and a paint gun can. (it's not the user it's the paint quality)

I thought about buying a cheap harbor freight gun and using that actually. Can I hook it to my compressor and rock with the right line pressure and not have to put water traps in and all that good stuff. Time is at a premium so I don't want to have to relearn another skill unless I can pick it up quickly.

Also, is the paint just pour in the gun and spray or do I have to use other chemicals to thin/reduce.

I don't know much about painting but I watched my buddy do it and he's a pro. It looked like a PITA, but this is a garage job so it will take less effort.

[r1crusher]

Nick would be the guy to ask about duct taping a bike.

[serpentracer]

I thought about buying a cheap harbor freight gun and using that actually. Can I hook it to my compressor and rock with the right line pressure and not have to put water traps in and all that good stuff. Time is at a premium so I don't want to have to relearn another skill unless I can pick it up quickly.

Also, is the paint just pour in the gun and spray or do I have to use other chemicals to thin/reduce.

I don't know much about painting but I watched my buddy do it and he's a pro. It looked like a PITA, but this is a garage job so it will take less effort.

you would have to use their reducer in the paint and hardener in the clear.

it's really not as bad as it looks.

[ZxHooligan]

Clear is expensive if its just gonna be a track bike is just base coat it but put the hardener in the color coat. That's what I do with my work and show tractors. Its just gonna get scuffed up why pay out the ass for clear coat and if done right looks shiny like a new penny

[serpentracer]

base coat dries flat. it has to be cleared. why waste all that money for the color (that costs more than clear) then not clear it?

you could just rattle can it and get the same result.

[ZxHooligan]

The acrylic enamels I buy dry glossy. What your talking about is base coat clear coat they do make paints that don't have to be cleared. Spraying clear is no walk in the park

[donkason]

So is there a quick and easy single stage I could spray and wet sand/buff to a descent shine?

[Limitedslip7]

I just painted a jetski in my buddies garage and it turned out great. Wish I would have painted my bike myself too. I sanded it to 400 grit, a few coats of high build primer, scuffed to 600 grit, then laid down 2 coats of white base, 4 coats of Synergy Green base, followed by 4 coats of clear. Base and clear were done in one sitting (about two hours). It was much easier than I thought it would be. Spend the time to do the prep work, take your time, and it will more than likely turn out pretty good. This was pretty much my first paint job ever. Used a $100 Lowes gun.

[serpentracer]

The acrylic enamels I buy dry glossy. What your talking about is base coat clear coat they do make paints that don't have to be cleared. Spraying clear is no walk in the park

you didn't say you were using single stage. no wonder. you're not supposed to clear those.

shooting clear isn't that bad. if you get the gun set up just right you don't have to buff it out or anything. I have to turn my air pressure up on my gun inlet to get it to atomize properly for clear. I use a sharpe finex gun.

[serpentracer]

I just painted a jetski in my buddies garage and it turned out great. Wish I would have painted my bike myself too. I sanded it to 400 grit, a few coats of high build primer, scuffed to 600 grit, then laid down 2 coats of white base, 4 coats of Synergy Green base, followed by 4 coats of clear. Base and clear were done in one sitting (about two hours). It was much easier than I thought it would be. Spend the time to do the prep work, take your time, and it will more than likely turn out pretty good. This was pretty much my first paint job ever. Used a $100 Lowes gun.

dude you have some natural talent if that's your first job. 600 is a little fine. the paint can have issues adhering to it.

[donkason]

Here is the start if it. Thanks for all your help guys. I didn't spend time grinding out every rock chip and I painted at night, so there are a few bugs that snuck into my garage and on the paint. I learned a lot about what I need to do next time to make it perfect and what filler primer will and will not cover

I'm shooting an orange and then taping it off and shooting black so it'll be an accent color. Black base going on today. I will post up pics later. I only had one run though! Not bad for a first timer.

There is more orange peel than I'd like but I'm sure that's due to me not knowing how to use the gun, pressure, etc.

[mgossel]

Looks a lot better than mine bud. Can't wait to see it.

[donkason]

Looks a lot better than mine bud. Can't wait to see it.

You gonna be out at Mid O next week?

[donkason]

So far so good. It's got a ton of dust in it. I will wet sand the gloss black and get rid of the orange peel and grit. All in all not too bad for my first time around.

[mgossel]

You gonna be out at Mid O next week?

Yeah man, I am signed up for the 13th and 14th. Me and the old lady will be there early Monday. You?

[donkason]

Yeah man, I am signed up for the 13th and 14th. Me and the old lady will be there early Monday. You?

I'm ready to rock for Tuesday. I got a new job so Mondays will be tough. I'm stoked to get back out there.

[redkow97]

for rattle-can jobs:

- buy that little gun dohicky that clips onto the spray can bottle. Your index finger and thumb will thank you.

- prime the bike white or grey first, just to have a uniform color so you can see the coverage better.

- more thin coats are better than a couple of thick coats. Leave ample dry/cure time!

- rattle-can clear isn't bad to apply. I did 2 coats. wish I'd done more. could only have helped the durability.

[donkason]

All finished

[Saacattack]

nice work!

[donkason]

nice work!

Thanks man! How's next month looking for a track day? I can run Tuesdays only for now. I was going today but had a bent rotor I figured out at the last second>:-0

[Saacattack]

Thanks man! How's next month looking for a track day? I can run Tuesdays only for now. I was going today but had a bent rotor I figured out at the last second>:-0

Thats no good!

I'm getting my schedule for next month within the next couple of days. So Ill take a look and see if I have any Tuesdays off so I can head up there with you. Ill keep you posted!