Wojo72 Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 Oil threads on the web are like a holy war. I've got just a little over 1K on the bike. Too soon to switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidgetTodd Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 never too soon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wandering Soul Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 What's the dealer/manufacturer recommend? A lot of new vehicles come off the assembly line with synthetic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wojo72 Posted November 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 It doesn't say one way or the other. Talks about avoiding energy conserving oil but that's about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinNck1 Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 Calling @2talltim. I'm sure he want's to talk about oil. I switch everything to synthetic, just make sure there aren't friction modifiers that could cause clutch issues. Usually a manual will say what certification oil they require (For warranty reasons). The "break in" oil is usually changed at 500-600 miles by book spec on most bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScubaCinci Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 Some bikes have synthetic from the factory...BMW's do I believe. I know my BMW cars have had synthetic from the start. Part of the reason the oil change intervals are so long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 (edited) Hey I resemblem that remark @JustinNck1 I really don't really care what kind of earl people want to use. Just don't like seeing people over pay for crap they don't need. Why pay $12 a quart or more for these high dollar specialty oils when they sell a 5 quart jug of premium oil that will work in almost any vehicle and it's around $5 a quart and available at Walmart or any local auto parts store. Rotella T6 FTW! Put it in your Bike, Car, Truck, diesel, lawn mower, or golfcart. It has the specification for them all. Your neighborhood @MidgetTodd will agree. Edited November 5, 2016 by 2talltim 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 I tried the Rottella T6. Didn't like it much. Worked, but shifts felt "gritty". I now use it for winter storage since it's cheap. Impression was that some of the better mineral oils would work better, like Castrol for bikes. Would not use old school mineral with catalytic converter, can't remember why I think that. Starting to go with ester based Mobil 1 for everything.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx3vfr Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 T6 5dub40 in the Suzuki. GN4 in the Honda because Honda calls for 5dub30. 0dub20 in the ecoturd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue03636 Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 37 minutes ago, ReconRat said: I tried the Rottella T6. Didn't like it much. Worked, but shifts felt "gritty". I now use it for winter storage since it's cheap. Impression was that some of the better mineral oils would work better, like Castrol for bikes. Would not use old school mineral with catalytic converter, can't remember why I think that. Starting to go with ester based Mobil 1 for everything.... I have had similar uses with T6 and it didn't last as long. The bike would start to miss shifts like mad until I would change it again. I know some have no issues with it but it's not worth my time to change it 3x as often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinNck1 Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 Royal Purple 10w40 for the FJR. I have seen gear drives on side by sides drop 20 degrees when switching to it. Cam chain tensioners warn out at 20k miles, switched to Royal Purple and at 70k miles they still looked new. I don't run the motorcycle oil though. Just regular Royal Purple HPS. $8 a quart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zx3vfr Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 1 hour ago, JustinNck1 said: Royal Purple 10w40 for the FJR. I have seen gear drives on side by sides drop 20 degrees when switching to it. Cam chain tensioners warn out at 20k miles, switched to Royal Purple and at 70k miles they still looked new. I don't run the motorcycle oil though. Just regular Royal Purple HPS. $8 a quart. Wet or Dry clutch on an fjr? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinNck1 Posted November 5, 2016 Report Share Posted November 5, 2016 22 minutes ago, zx3vfr said: Wet or Dry clutch on an fjr? Wet clutch, Royal Purple says their HPS line is safe for motorcycle clutches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidgetTodd Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 T6 Has been in everything I own for years from the yard to the track never an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidgetTodd Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 23 hours ago, zx3vfr said: GN4 in the Honda because Honda calls for 5dub30. Still not an issue to run 5-40 T6 in it. If you look in the owners book it also calls for 10-40, its all temp based. 40 is the thickest the oil will get when its freezing, how often do you ride the Honda when its 20 degrees out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2talltim Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 (edited) On 11/5/2016 at 10:26 AM, ReconRat said: I tried the Rottella T6. Didn't like it much. Worked, but shifts felt "gritty". 23 hours ago, blue03636 said: I have had similar uses with T6 and it didn't last as long. The bike would start to miss shifts like mad until I would change it again. I know some have no issues with it but it's not worth my time to change it 3x as often. Noone is harder on a gear box than I am,and I mean noone. I ride a shaft drive, 150HP, 700lb touring bike and I literally ride it like a freaking race bike. I almost never clutch when I shift(up or down) I love heavy throttle take offs, I use a ton of engine brake too. Also Kawi calls for 7500 mile oil change intervals on my bike and I'll push it to that as often as I can and never a problem. She alway's shifts nice and smooth, never misses a shift never had trouble getting in nuteral.even after I wait 7000ish miles for a oil change it comes out dark brown, never burnt and never broken down. But the one thing my bike has going for it though is she does take 5 quarts of oil. So there is a lot in there to cycle through and maybe that helps it. Edited November 6, 2016 by 2talltim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue03636 Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 I would get one race weekend (2 days) from t6 and it would false neutral like mad. Switched to eni and I could get 3 weekends (maybe more as that was the max I would go) no issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whaler Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 T6 is decent oil based on oil analysis, but I too did not like how quickly it effects shifting. Good oil is all you need. The difference between $5 vs $12 quart oil will not break the bank...run what feels the best and keeps your mind at ease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfman1 Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 Now is a perfect time to switch to synthetic oil if that's the route you want to take. When I bought my first FZ1 new, I switched from conventional to Amsoil full synthetic, it was pricey, but worked well. I then switched to Mobil One full synthetic and ran that for many seasons due to it being better on the wallet and readily available at any Automotive store, until I noticed the bike stated burning it after so many miles into the oil change. My research has concluded this is a common problem with Mobil One. I have since switched back to Amsoil. Never had any issues with the clutch or shifting and hardly burns any oil. I have contemplated just running Yamalube conventional for a season to see if there is any noticeable difference and save some cash in the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wojo72 Posted November 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 I was undecided so I just threw conventional oil in it yesterday. It didn't need it but I want fresh oil sitting in it during the winter. I have a jug of T6 for next time. I bought it for my FZ07 but sold the bike right before the next service. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScubaCinci Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 I read a lot of oil threads over the years and most of it is very subjective and even the "factual" parts can be biased depending on the test and who was performing it. There's things that synth oil does better and things that dino oil does better so I use a blend of the two. However, unless you flat out use the wrong oil, any difference in protection/performance won't manifest for many years and miles - likely long after you've moved on so don't sweat the small stuff. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wandering Soul Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 If you really want to know what's going on in your engine or gearbox, try these folks. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/labOneKit.php?clickkey=2825763 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScubaCinci Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 this is an interesting read as well http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/lowdown-on-motorcycle-engine-oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimTheAzn Posted November 7, 2016 Report Share Posted November 7, 2016 I've been running Motul in the trumpet and havent had any issues with it. Change it every 3k street or after a track weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kruse08 Posted November 8, 2016 Report Share Posted November 8, 2016 Amsoil synthetic for my car and motorcycle only anymore. I pay the premium but enjoy the results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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