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t-56 questions


phil
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so last night i was doing a few pulls, i went from 2nd gear in a 40 roll, missed third, then did a 60 in third to 4th til about 115-120 tops. now, when i went to slow down again i got to about 40 and tried to go in third and it would not go, so i figured id go into 6th and just cruise it out, but it wouldnt go into any gear. i pulled over thinking i blew it up, shut it off for a second tried it again and everything was fine. car is running fine today no issues, is this somthing i should worry about? is it a common issue? what can i do to prevent this? any help is needed, thanks alot
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+1. This kind of happened to me before. I missed a shift and it wouldnt go back into any gear for about 30 seconds. I pulled off, just sat and let the car idle and it went back in butter smooth.

 

Interested to see replies.

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What did it do when you tried to go in gear? Grind or just not let you go in gear?

 

first few time it wouldnt go into any gear, then it grinded a little bit then nothing again.

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Sounds like maybe the keys might be going bad. Mine broke after that happened for awhile and it was stuck in 4th. Gave me an excuse to get it built. They put better keys in with the rest of the upgrades. Definitely could be something else, but that is what mine did before it went south. Keep in mind that I don't take it easy on the tranny at all.
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Sounds like maybe the keys might be going bad. Mine broke after that happened for awhile and it was stuck in 4th. Gave me an excuse to get it built. They put better keys in with the rest of the upgrades. Definitely could be something else, but that is what mine did before it went south. Keep in mind that I don't take it easy on the tranny at all.

 

 

well i know 2nd gear syncro is going bad already so i dont use it much at all, and i dont abuse the car. actually thats the first time ive actually gotten into to it like that

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Clutch pedal woes. It's a very common problem.

 

The wet boiling point for DOT3 and even DOT4 is way too low. Most people are running either DOT4 Super (aka DOT5), or a synthetic DOT fluid. ::WARNING:: If you choose to run the synthetic stuff, which has a much higher wet boiling point, you CANNOT mix it with any of the previous DOT fluids (DOT3, DOT4, DOT4 Super). It will turn to a gel. Flush the lines and suck the new synthetic stuff thru. It's much more expensive, at like $12 for 8oz. I think. IIRC, the problem is that the lines/fluid gets heated up too quick, then cools quickly, leaving water in the lines, which does not help the action of the slave cylinder. The design of the slave also lets dust in the line, which if not cleaned, will break down the seals of the slave over time.

 

It's recommended to change the fluid weekly or before "spirited driving." :( Usually the problem only comes up on fast, high RPM shifts. I can drive my car for weeks shifting regular, or even flooring every gear, but shifting easy at high rpms, and no issues. But if I try to shift fast at high rpms, it's a no go. You'll also notice that the clutch pedal will be sluggish, have a non-existant action, get stuck down, or be very very hard to depress. All symptoms of this problem.

 

 

Here's the article. There's another link to the actual article in there.

 

http://forum.grrrr8.net/showthread.php?t=4791&pagenumber=&4791-Boiled-crappy-factory-clutch-fluid_=

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I had the same issue several times and it was the syncro key and then the syncros went.

 

Also there is a drill mod you can do, you drill out a small reducer in the braded line going from the master cylinder to your transmission, search for more details on ls1 tech.

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I never had the grinding issue but my car had the drill mod. The only issue that I ever had was on very hot nights if I was really running my car hard the clutch would turn to mashed potatos and stick to the floor. One night I had to get my toes under it and pry it from the floor of the car. I cruised it for a little bit and let everything cool down and then it was fine.
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its not necessarily the master cylinder but you can get a tick adjustable master cylinder which also helps, but in the stock fbody line that gos from the master cylinder to the slaver cylinder they put a reducer in the line to lessen the flow so the clutch wouldnt grab as hard to attempt to ad some more time to the already borrowed time the glass 10 bolt has.
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Phil my SS did this and it ended being broken syncro keys I continued to drive the car that way until I broke the teeth off that $1500.00 counter shaft, remember those 2 broken counter shafts (aka expensive reminders)on my toolbox?
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Phil my SS did this and it ended being broken syncro keys I continued to drive the car that way until I broke the teeth off that $1500.00 counter shaft, remember those 2 broken counter shafts (aka expensive reminders)on my toolbox?

 

haha i kept driveing mine also and 3rd and 4th compleatly went out, but i ended up buying an rpm tranny.

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its not necessarily the master cylinder but you can get a tick adjustable master cylinder which also helps, but in the stock fbody line that gos from the master cylinder to the slaver cylinder they put a reducer in the line to lessen the flow so the clutch wouldnt grab as hard to attempt to ad some more time to the already borrowed time the glass 10 bolt has.

 

That is defently a good investment. Had it as well just forgot to mention it.

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I'm prolly just going to buy another transmission and wait until this one breaks. Thanks fir all the help. Just on a side note though, I made a pull last nite and it did it again, but once I took my foot off the clutch and like turbo kart said the clutch was sluggish but once that sprung back up, it was back in buisness.
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I'm prolly just going to buy another transmission and wait until this one breaks. Thanks fir all the help. Just on a side note though, I made a pull last nite and it did it again, but once I took my foot off the clutch and like turbo kart said the clutch was sluggish but once that sprung back up, it was back in buisness.

 

Time for some Super DOT4 and weekly flushes lol.

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