Best conventional oil?

[excell]

The engine builder for my 347 told me he prefers I run conventional and not synthetic. Typically, I'm a Mobil 1 guy through and through... what's the best conventional oil nowadays?

[Rally Pat]

Amazon Basics

[BuckeyeROC]

Conventional for a break-in period or for the entire life of the engine?

[Gergwheel1647545492]

Amazon oil seems to perform really well and is super cheap. Guy on YouTube i watch did a review of it and he was seriously impressed for the price. It is also SN Plus rated, so it meets all the quality standards here in the US and overseas.

 

http://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Conventional-Motor-Oil-5W-30/dp/B07C5CY8FW

[Cordell]

I’d look at a Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs oil, something with extra zinc in it. Anything you buy cheap isn’t going to have that.

 

Or ask your engine builder what he thinks you should use. Curious as to why at this point in time he wouldn’t want you to use synthetic, I’d probably do it anyway if it were me.

[zeitgeist57]

I remember having the 300ci I-6 rebuilt by Mike at M&M in Delaware years back. With the CompCam in it, he recommended a conventional oil with ZDDP additive in it. Yeah...that lasted a 4-pack of additives' worth of oil changes and then I went synthetic.

 

Just Rotella T6 it.

[iwashmycar]

Aftermarket off-road gear company ECGS also recommends dino oil in their stuff. They say it is because with conventional oil the metal parts of the (insert assembly here) stay cooler, whereas with Synthetic, the oil itself stays cooler instead.

[BIGGU]

for my engine break in I used Lucas SAE30 break-in oil for the first start and then second fill. After that I switched to oreilly cheap shit oil for two more flushes and now im on Castrol GTX. Once I hit 3k miles on the engine ill probably swap to synthetics but I haven't decided which one yet.

[excell]

Yea, not just for break in. It's got break in oil in it now that I'm ready to change. I did ask if he had a brand he preferred and he basically said any high quality conventional. His logic was, in their experience 347's tend to seep a bit more oil when using synthetic and he just really prefers mineral oil as long as it's changed regularly. Seemed a little odd, but they're a pretty well known shop for strokers.

 

I'll take a look at all of these options. Thank you!

[excell]

Thanks for the recs! Emailed the builder and he signed off on Joe Gibbs Driven HR-2 https://www.drivenracingoil.com/hr2-10w-30-conventional-hot-rod-oil.html Ordering some up from Summit.

[Geeto67]

I remember having the 300ci I-6 rebuilt by Mike at M&M in Delaware years back. With the CompCam in it, he recommended a conventional oil with ZDDP additive in it. Yeah...that lasted a 4-pack of additives' worth of oil changes and then I went synthetic.

 

Just Rotella T6 it.

 

When they reformulated it to pass API SM and SN ratings they pulled a lot of the zinc and phosphorus out of it. Need to make sure when you are buying the T6 you aren't getting the weak stuff.

[Ackbar00]

The best oil? The one that you change often. Have had several cars over 200k and all I really did was just keep up on the oil changes.

[gillbot]

Brad penn or go read on bitog

[PsychoticGaming]

Not enough info on the engine to give you a good answer, what cam? Roller or flat? Solid or Hyd? Rings? Boost? Ect.

 

Likely you should break it in on what your builder wants and thats on him.

 

If you're enclined to go synthetic start it up on BradPenn for a flat tappet and after break in move to T6. I've done that on several engines. If its a roller I would just break it in on Valvoline dino oil and after break in move to T6.

 

If you're staying conventional just run BradPenn.

[Nickey4271647545519]

Lubriplate.

 

If you decide you want to run a syn-blend or full-syn then I would recommend Schaeffer's.