downingracing

SCCA track days are usually on Friday before a race weekend. No hotel necessary - Come for the day and have fun! What exactly was the cause? I thought the front pads were upgraded with a big brake kit and the rears were stock and the rears went away... At least that is the story I heard. I also heard 'other' stories about those cars and the way they were driving (in the beginner group)... In low HP cars you don't need spacial brake fluid. I run .3 autozone crap in my ITA Civic with Carbotech pads on the front and stock shoes in the rear. I get to 120 on the back straight and I hit the brakes at 200. No brake ducts and my brakes do fine for a complete race weekend. Most race weekends - I don't even bleed the system... And I run 1:44-1:45 on the club course and 1:42-1:43 on the pro course. Not bad for 132hp/111tq.

I've got a Motorola Droid (first gen) A855 (Verizon network) for sale. Comes with phone, battery and the following extras: USB Power cord with wall adapter Desk / nightstand charging dock (Motorola) Windshield mount (Motorola) Phone is used - Screen is great and slide keyboard works great. Comes with an additional A855 phone that the screen isn't working on. Could be repaired or used for parts. This parts phone comes with a good battery, but is missing battery cover. CR price is $60 for everything. http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/droid.jpg

I've been leasing my tow vehicles. GM makes a great truck, but around 60k miles, they need work! And when I drop them off at the end of the lease, they are used up. The leases I've had have a residual value that is very high. Lower monthly payment and cost too much to purchase on the back end. (Both of which are exactly what I look for in a lease) I use the vehicle up and hand it back in after 4 years (60k miles). Worked in the past for me, and i always came out ahead. Just my .02¢.

I lease our (family) car and am on lease #5. Never had any issues and get to pay a portion of the value and hand the keys back when it is out of warranty and get another. Works for me - but I do a good bit of research before making a lease agreement... And you can modify the car all you want. Just keep the OEM parts and put them back on at the end of the lease. No different than mods made to a car under warranty and then the stock parts go back on for warranty work. (I don't do this, but know folks who do).

Check Amazon for these. I'm looking to get one myself and happened to search Amazon.com. The prices were $80-180 cheaper (looking at the Mr. Heater brand) over Sears.com pricing. (And Amazon offers free shipping) I still haven't purchsed anything yet - but thought I'd let you know about what I've found. Good luck with your purchase!

I've got no tie to this dealer and get nothing if you sell it to them. Call Jeff Wyler Chevrolet (614-321-3179) and speak with Kelsey Crenshaw. (Won't do you any good, but you can tell him Matt Downing *Sold them the 06 Accord V6/6Speed passed his name on to you) It may take a little negotiation, but I'd guess you should be able to get close to the # you're looking for. Don't discount CarMax either... If they have 20 of those on the lots, your offer will be low. If they don't have many of them in inventory (you can check this), your offer will be better. Good luck! Let us all know how it goes!

I sold my Accord to Jeff Wyler Chevrolet (old Bob McDorman) for 10% more than the CarMax offer. Straight sale - traded the title for a check. I've purchased from them in the past (9 months ago the latest time) and worked with my sales rep for the purchase. Kelsey Crenshaw is his name and it was a fairly easy process. CarMax gave me a take it or leave it #. With Jeff Wyler Chevy, it was a negotiation like buying a car (backwards). I don't think you will get 'retail' price, but should be able to get trade-in value no problem. Not knowing the trim level and options - your $26k # looks in the ballpark. (I looked KBB value for several models/optino combos) Good luck with your sale!

This house belonged to my 2nd cousin. He passed away this year attending his 40th Indy 500. The estate owns the house now and after close to $20k in renovation/improvements - it is being offered for sale. Details about the home: MLS#: 211029611 Price: $59,900 Style: 1 STORY Bedrooms: 3 Baths Full: 1 Baths Half: 0 Sq Ft: 1160 Year Built: 1961 County: Franklin Lot Size: 56 x 108 Tax Fee: 1675.88 School District: COLUMBUS House has a 1 car (deep) garage attached and is located on a cul-de-sac lot. Down Payment assistance is available (PM me for details). If you or anyone you know is tired of paying rent - this could be the house for you. Link to ad: http://listings.listhub.net/pages/CCOMLSOH/211029611/?channel=zillow

sold - lock it up

Complete head (under valve cover): http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8.2.completehead.jpg Intake with wiring: http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8.2.intake.jpg Block (2 pics): http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8.2.engine1.jpg http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8.2.engine2.jpg

I've got all my Y8 parts at home now! I purchased these for a project I was going to do but ended up not going that direction. Because I didn't pull them myself - these parts are all sold as-is. The following is what I have available for sale: *********************************************** Complete Y8 head. Appears to be ready to go. Comes with valve cover down. http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8z.jpg *********************************************** Complete Y8 motor - ready to be re-assembled. Looks like everything: Block, Head, Crank, Cam, Pistons, Intake Manifold, Pan, Valve Cover, sensors and the misc. parts to put it all together. Parts are individually wrapped and many have labels. All parts look great. I did not disassemble this motor. I got it this way - Wrapped up in tubs. Been in climate controlled storage for a few years. I can't verify that the entire motor is there. What you see is what you get. ** Will consider selling seperate, but I want to sell complete head, block, intake as single pieces. http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8a.jpg http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8b.jpg http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8c.jpg http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8d.jpg http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8e.jpg http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8f.jpg *********************************************** Y8 Distributor. http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8_dist.jpg *********************************************** Y8 Alternator. http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/y8_alt.jpg *********************************************** Prices (all obo): Complete head - $100.00 Complete motor (all in parts - includes Alt. and Dist.) - $400.00

If it was 40 or 380 - I'd be interested. Thanks for the offer.

Still available. I've put around 500 miles on it. Getting 32mpg.

Happens... I've got family (2nd Cousin) that the family tree ended with his passing. Him and his brother were the only children from both sides of the tree. Neither one was married - no kids - so everything was left to the 'extended' family. I know how you feel. You try to hold onto things that were 'family' items, but at some point you just start letting go of them. I wish I had a need/use for that ring - cool piece! GL with the sale!

As for value/buy back price - Seems to go like this: Ins.co looks at vehicle and estimates damage. If that estimate is over X% of the value of the vehicle, they call it a total loss. Then they call around to local salvage yards to see what they will pay for the wrecked car. That # is the buyback cost for you to keep the car. So the 'hotter' the car, the higher the buyback price is. You can also check a site like this one to see if anyone is interested in purchasing the car from you if you buy it back (and are not interested in keeping/fixing it yourself). You can make a few bucks extra for very little work.

Available this weekend - $100 for everything.

http://bmv.ohio.gov/salvage_inspection.stm

I've done this many times in Columbus. Inspection process is not for safety (other than no sharp edges sticking out). I've had cars inspected with no airbags, horn, cracked windshield... They only wanted receipts for the parts replaced from the crash. Sometimes there are no parts because the damage is 'internal'. Then they give it a once over and stamp the form - you are good to go. Convert the title back to a rebuilt one and back on the road. It is an easy option if the car still runs and drives good. Also not a bad option to buy it back and sell it for more to someone who fixes/flips them... Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Wow... What are you - 12? I'm sure you are right - I'm a douche bag tard who is clueless about the auto industry. I must be auto stupid and can't read. I read your post. You are treating the car they let you use like crap. Yea - Dealerships don't use 'used' cars as rentals and THEN sell them on the lot. What was I thinking...? I'm sure they have dedicated rentals that they crush once they are used up. You said you drove it for a 'while' - So a while to you is one day? That would be right away - not a while. I'd bet a good bit of money that they wish you would just give it back and go somewhere else to get a car. Some customers are not worth the PITA factor. I'm sure your friends like you and you are a nice person 'in person', but your e-thug puts you in a category of folks I'd never deal with or help out. Please note my user ID and don't ever purchase anything from me. That will be best for both of us. (downingracing - Matt Downing) Good luck with the situation. edit: Adding you to my ignore list - please do the same for my ID. Thanks.

Can't imagine why you are having issues with a car from there with a comment like that... Probably how the person felt who was driving (beating the crap out of) the used car you purchased as a 'rental' while the one they bought was being worked on for some random issue. With any used car - you pay your money and take your chances. CarMax seems to be bending over backwards to make this right for you. It took you driving it for a 'while' to notice this slight issue? Of course they are stabbing in the dark to figure out a slight vibration at a small speed range. I'm sure they want it fixed as soon as possible so they can be done dealing with you too.

Still have them. Want them gone by the end of the weekend or they go into storage......

GLWS! I sold one just like it (a month ago) on CL in 2 hours. Mine was an SI, but in about the same condition. Should bea n easy sale for you.

More pics: http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/95Civic91.jpg http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/95Civic92.jpg

1995 Honda Civic EX Coupe Red / Black 5-Speed transmission Pros: Header & axle back exhaust (Apexi) AEM air intake Short shifter Side marker turn signals Body and paint are in GREAT CONDITION (minimal rust on the 1/4s) Hood bra with complete bra included Great tires and brakes Power windows, locks, mirrors and sunroof Cons: A/C and Cruise control removed Airbags are present but not hooked up (used to have aftermarket wheel) Higher miles (Guessing around 240k - actual miles unknown - not the original cluster) No spare tire or jack Car runs and drives great. I've put 300 miles on it in the past week. Car is listed on CL for a bit more (Love CL lowballers), but is available for $1800 obo. I picked this car up to be a parts car, but it was too nice to part out. I put some time and money into it and I keep having thoughts of keeping it. I'm sure I'll regret selling it, but it needs to go. Partial trades considered! (Guns, Toolbox, Dirtbike...) Also have a set of SI rims with NEW Hankook tires available for an additional $500.00 (not listed anywhere else - will only sell with the car). http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/95civic9.jpg http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/95civic8.jpg http://www.downingracing.com/forsale/pictures/95civic7.jpg