Geeesammy

Been down with the flu for a few days, to make it crappier this nice weather would have been a nice time to get a lot of work done. But I did sell a few parts and wanted to get them shipped, the main one being the ECU. Not a high dollar item but I'm ordering ProEFI once I pick up a new daily. The old "New Ecu" http://i.imgur.com/5EmgW2R.jpg I know it's hard to make wiring look good when it's a whole new engine setup, but some of the stuff that I couldn't get a picture of was just unreal. Wires just barely twisted together with no butt connector or heat shrink tubing, duct tape being used in places I couldn't imagine, and a few paperclips were used to bridge the gap between two wires that were too short to connect in a few instances. Glad I took all this apart. I was having a lot of electrical issues with the car, it would lean way out around 2,000-3,000 rpm, then dump fuel from 3,100-3,500 when I was out of boost cruising at part throttle. In addition I was having a lot of battery drain/draw issues, I'm sure this stuff was at least part of, if not the issue. http://i.imgur.com/XWus167.jpg http://i.imgur.com/zrQUOJp.jpg I shot the previous owner a text just to give him an update on the car, I ended up talking to him quite a bit and he told me who did the swap, of course curiosity killed the cat and I googled the name... here is just a brief summary of what I found. Who knows what else I'm gonna find in this thing that has been half-assed. http://i.imgur.com/Iv58AaT.jpg But anyways. Hopefully the next update will look something like this... http://i.imgur.com/DHQcDeo.jpg

Alex is a boss. Can't wait for him to give my car (and me) his "special" touch.

Intake gaskets lead to BHG.

Tell her to get the Flu. It's worked great for me, dropped 10 lbs in 2 days...

Was going to make it, feel like garbage now.

Only queers need two turbos :lolguy:

What about a "true street" class and a "street" class? True street being no cage or maybe a 4 or 6 point, factory drivetrain components only, power adders acceptable, and could be daily driven without much hassle (at least in non-winter weather). This would still allow good competition in my eyes and weed out some of the built up race cars that can be driven on the street, still allows turbo kits, built trans, superchargers, 12 bolt or 9" mods for the f body guys, and keeps it still on a somewhat fair playing ground. Then for the "street" class have an all out class, anything goes as long as its registered and insured with functioning lights, and meets all the specifications to be driven on the street? Obviously exhaust setups would be a concern and would need some sort of governing since hardly any modified exhaust is street legal anymore. Just my $.02. Hopefully this isn't seen as bitching.

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Great response. I'm sure the OP appreciates your input here. Jackass

No...you're a faggot. :gabe:

I'm in. I'd like to see a peer voted street class as well as a "race car" class. I.E. if the only time your junk leaves the garage for anything but a wash, then it is a track only car in your eyes.

Any interior pictures? Also how is the heat and A/C?

At a minimum all the valves. If it was mine I'd replace all the valves even if one showed wear. Hopefully the pistons didn't get chewed up. Depending on your situation it's almost cheaper to buy a known good junkyard pullout and do the small stuff while it's out and drop it in if you want to keep the car for awhile. Just my $.02. Plenty of people on here know more than me and will chime in with a little more comprehensive answer.

Most Honda engines as far as I know are interference engines. If no one chimes in I'll double check tomorrow at work.

I think I know you.... On topic, I sling parts. By title I'm a Commercial driver, but it's basically me and another guy that run a commercial program in a parts store. By the book he is my boss, but when he isn't around the shit is slung my way. Before this I had 2 years of Mechanical Engineering at University of Dayton but dropped out due to family reasons, went back and split time between OSU and CSCC, but taking time off until I decide what I want to do. Luckily I've incurred no student loan debt, and didn't want to start accumulating them without knowing it was definitely what I wanted to do. I'm hoping one day I can get a job that better suits a school schedule and making a little better money than I am now. I'd love to go back and get at least my bachelors in CE or ME

Yeah fake gate, it'll just get TiAL parts. I'm going with 1ZZ coils instead of LQ9's. Cheaper and come in all kinds of econobox's.

Intercoolers are usually rated for a "power level" Bigger intercooler means more area to pressurize and more lag. Go too big and get lag, go too small and get high IAT's. Id assume your car will have an IAT sensor, get hptuners and see what your car is pushing at full boost. I'd just research and see what people have run their stocker up to in your case. General rule of thumb I'd use is stock turbo(s) should use a stock intercooler. As with anything there is exceptions. My supra stock ran 10psi on the twins, the previous owner put the boost to 16psi and got a huge front mount. Still had decent response, full boost would come on at 3200rpm. Not much more boost but it was mainly to lower IAT's since the turbos were ceramic wheeled and higher temps meant more chance at grenading the wheels.

After playing around with the tuning software I don't like the user interface. It was very hard for me to use. It may cost more but it will save me the time and headache of having to research all the steps needed to make the unit work on the car. ProEFI has a lot of info on it for JZ engines and I can get a good base map to get the clutch broken in on and run everything I want to with it. In essence it's an "all in one" instead of having to buy this board and solder it into that one and then run a jumper wire between point x and point y. I can just build my harness and run my wires and be done with it. Not having to add on anything and no having to troubleshoot an ecu that hasn't been used a lot.

A little update, made a trip to Dayton to buy a twin scroll T4 manifold with a wastegate for dirt cheap, he thought it was eBay but it seems way too high of quality for ebay to me. Who knows. I didnt realize until I got home it had a bolt snapped off in one of the threaded holes on the flange, I've tried a few things to get it out but no luck yet. I also got my two Bosch 044's in the mail. One is going in the tank, the other inline near the rear axle. Running -06 or -08 line, haven't decided yet. Through my supplier it is the same per foot either way so I may go with -08. Also bought my turbo yesterday, should be here within a week or two. It has an undivided .81 T4 housing on it now, once I get it in my hands I will be buying a divided housing with an .84 A/R. Also working out a parts trade with a buddy for a custom bracket for the new coils ill be running. It will look OE and save me having to rig something up. Ill need to make a junkyard trip to try and find the coils I want to run. Hopefully next paycheck I can go ahead and buy my ProEFI or my remaining fuel system components. Ill post a few pictures, tapatalk doesn't upload them as well as far as quality goes. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/12/gajurupa.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/12/zy5ugety.jpg

33,700 on that gauge cluster.

That's badass! Mine is always making stuff like this, it's hard to believe but it seems like there is a big market for stuff like this. Younger people (women especially, not to mention hipster guys) scoop this stuff up like gold. Awesome work.

I saw a Beetle spin out right in front of me, 71N at 161. She barely even hit the wall but I think she hit the snow pile up. Definitely dangerous conditions even on a "plowed" road. Snow drifts can happen anywhere and unfortunately a lot of drivers are still dumb enough to play on their phones and not pay attention to the road.

I love Wagons/avant/estate/whatever with 4 doors and a hatch. It will be my next car..... After an RCSB Silverado, and a 12v Cummins....