serpentracer

never met one person from this forum. life is good. I might come crash the deals gap meet if it's on this year....glad you guys can meet me.

it really depends how well the current paint is. if it's not cracking, flaking, peeling etc, then all you need to do is wet sand it with 400. if it's got issues sand it all the way out in that spot that has issues. painting fiberglass is one of the best substrates to paint. paint sticks very well to it. primer is a must for real auto grade paints to hide the bare fiberglass spots. if not you'll see it through the paint and the colors will be different too. for rattle can it's a waste of money. rattle can paint is pretty cheap and hides better than auto grade paint does. so it's a lot more forgiving with shitty prep work. if you were looking for a factory grade paint finish I would suggest you sand and primer the whole thing and not use rattle can paint. because even paint pro can't lay spray can paint down and make it look as good as a novice using auto grade paint and a paint gun can. (it's not the user it's the paint quality)

better have it checked for mold then. they tore a hole street worth of homes down for that a year ago up the street from me.

insurance is one place you don't want to skimp even though we all want to so badly. it always bites you in the ass when you get the shit stuff. amercian modern, I wouldn't even give them a call. too obscure for me to bother. you got what you paid for.

it's a great tool. I went ahead and bought one for myself and man it's so much nicer knowing 100% that your oil level is dead nuts accurate.

sounds more like that cyl wasn't getting fuel. probably still a dirty carb issue. the jets in the carbs are very finicky. getting them clean usually means replacing them instead. it's going to be very hard to solve a issue that is intermittent. usually adjusting the synch will not effect the way the bike runs beyond idle. so IDK what they did beyond a synch that would cause you that kind of issue. I know you live in columbus but if you really need to, I know of a bike shop that could fix it. the dude is a god when it comes to carb tuning. he knew right away what was wrong with my buddy's suzuki intruder when it was back firing. he popped in a new secondary (or something like that) jet and viola...perfect running bike again. even though it was clean looking he said he guarantee's that's the problem and he was right.

if you're wondering how much to buy then it's usually just one quart for both forks. you want to fill the fork without the spring in it to a specific height in the tube. you'll need to measure it or use a fork oil height tool like this, http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0121/ this tool allows you to just pour in the oil then set the level on the metal tube with the stop and suck out the extra oil. way easier than measuring it with something.

if they had any kind of sign like the bar we eat lunch at on the door banning weapons being brought in...

yeah I've been loving this april. 2 days ago it was 85 today it's 44

they've always taken mine out after about a week or so. when they removed the staples in my knee looked like the skin would rip right back open because of the swelling but it didn't. they just snip them with a pair of snips and pull them out. it kind of feels like a shot each time though. it sucks when they're in a sensitive area like my wrist when they cut it open to install a plate in it.

brake fluid and transmission fluid can be mixed with motor oil and disposed into the container at the autoparts stores. this was on the container in the back of the store. I went into the back with them once. it's all oil derived and is ok to be mixed. It's coolant that I have no idea what to do with.

well it's just a rather useless test in my opinion. it's one thing to test your reactions at a computer it's another to be on a bike and put them to a real life test. and honestly if you're not paying attention to signs and get confused to what's going on with the lanes etc, you're a retard that shouldn't have any kind of a license.

because sitting at a computer is exactly like riding. you know because how fast it blinks the signs is exactly like real life.... you'll learn how to be a great rider if you play motogp 13 on xbox also

I know on my R6 if you don't get the clutch cover lever just right it doesn't work.

I'm not gonna lie my buddy tore his way back in 1999 and it still bothers him. of course he wouldn't listen to the docs and at the time he was in his mid 30's. and he never gave it the time to heal all the way before he kept using it too much. now he tore the other one in 2009 or so and is still getting surgeries on it. (workers comp)

rossi will win #8 because yamaha is a bad mother fucker

easier said than done for most people. it's a fact run down public schools are not the same as a private school the rich parents send their kid to. and then there's the parents... or lack thereof. when the cards are stacked against them there's way more ladders to climb in life than someone that starts out with all of it. and most people I know aren't exactly happy they're poor but they're not letting that effect their time on this earth. they do all the things they can do together as a family and just try to be happy. the way i look at it is if someone feels that having a lot of money makes them feel whole or more of a person than a poor man then they're the one that's living a sad lonely existence.

sounds like someone made that up to shut someone up. that's not caused by freezing temps. and if you believe that you're naive. that's a bad tire period. and for them to not honor a warranty (if it is under one) is sleazy.

tire companies have not use mold release for quite some time a pirelli rep said so in a magazine interview. there are also other myths about tires he said are not true. 1. race tires on the street will never have less grip than a street tire. 2. mold release is not used in the industry anymore. 3. there is no such thing as a 100 mile break in period 4. tires only need heat to work nothing else. (no need to worry about a break in period) they didn't mention what the oily stuff is on a tire but it's not mold release.

you could ride with this guy^ if you want to get up before the sun comes up lol aforrest, how many years you been riding down there and had any real kind of trouble? I know the only real trouble we almost had was a sheriff that thought he owned the world. and he got his ass either fired or he resigned over the shit he said to some of us one day. and I say almost because he didn't do anything but talk shit to us while we were at a common rest stop everyone uses. trying to scare us for what ever reason. since 2003 I've never had anyone do something like that to me or the group I've been riding with.

I just replaced my 2003's battery this past weekend. I never put it on a tender or any kind of charger.

you should come on down here your tone will change real quick. we don't have to ride a single road that's 10 miles long to ride and that's our day like you guys. you'll be bored to death around your house after a trip down in KY. I've done a lot of work in the last 14 years in dayton. I've been all over it to know it's no northern KY. I know of a road that takes about 30-40 mins to complete (at an average speed of 65) that will tire you out from all the curves it has. they're back to back. when you come out of one you're going into another one. imagine that for about 35 mins or so. it's about 50 miles long. trust me, you'll have a better time on these roads than anything dayton has to offer. if you want to come try it out sometime just hit me up. that's a serious offer.