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What STREET gearing do you run?


redkow97

Street gearing poll  

36 members have voted

  1. 1. What gearing do you run on your STREET bike?

    • Stock gearing. I like it.
    • I am geared slightly taller for better acceleration
    • I am geared slightly shorter, for lower highway RPM
    • I have the world's largest rear sprocket for power-wheelies/stunts.


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Stock, debated -1 +2 but why? I mostly commute and when I'm not I don't really "need" more power anywhere, if anything do something like jschaf was saying and lengthening a tad so I'm at a lower rpm on the slab, not the normal 600 gearing...

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Depends on a lot of things. If a stock chain puts your axle very close to the front of the adjustment space when it's new then you probably won't have enough slack if you go very big on the rear. If it puts the axle more towards the middle then you may be able to wind out the adjustment to give yourself slack. An entire new chain isn't necessary, much cheaper to buy a half link and another master to add length. If you subtract the same amount of teeth from the front as you add to the rear it's not quite a zero sum equation but close enough for practical purposes.

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Just remember if you wanna go up 2 in the rear. The equivalent isn't up 1 in front down 1 in back. A single tooth up front is like 2 teeth in back. So your better off going with Just a tooth up in front. Still a big change. This is what I did originally when doing track days. Now I can't remember what I did. I know I went a little taller since I don't plan in tracking my bike for a while.

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Stock, debated -1 +2 but why? I mostly commute and when I'm not I don't really "need" more power anywhere,

 

I DO need more power.  Remember, the last bike I rode in anger was a 600RR, and now I'm going to be on a Katana 750 with (at least) 25 fewer horses, and a considerable more weight.

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Just remember if you wanna go up 2 in the rear. The equivalent isn't up 1 in front down 1 in back. A single tooth up front is like 2 teeth in back. So your better off going with Just a tooth up in front. Still a big change. This is what I did originally when doing track days. Now I can't remember what I did. I know I went a little taller since I don't plan in tracking my bike for a while.

 

Don't you mean a tooth DOWN in front?

 

I went  tooth up in front to set my speedo correct and make first gear useful.

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i am clueless about gearing other than the very basics....is there any benefit to going 0/+2 as opposed to -1/+1 ? jumping up 2 in the rear seems more convenient than switching both sprockets?

 

I didn't realize you quoted me til now. Oops! Changing the tooth count on the FRONT sprocket makes for a much larger overall change. Its usually said that one tooth change on the front is equal to about 3 on the rear sprocket. So -1 up front = +3 in the rear and vise versa. Plus putting on a smaller sprocket up front adds to chain wear as it has to make a much smaller radius around sprocket. Bigger sprocket in the rear may adds more links there for a little less wear, although this is prolly not noticable.

 

Some good info on chain and sprocket kits-

 

https://www.motomummy.com/Basic_Chain_Kit_info.html

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I DO need more power. Remember, the last bike I rode in anger was a 600RR, and now I'm going to be on a Katana 750 with (at least) 25 fewer horses, and a considerable more weight.

I see what you mean. Why the, I hate to say it, downgrade?

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Red, a set of gsxr cams and carbs will really wake that motor up. With proper tuning you should get over 100 hp out of it.

That may be a winter project some day, but I could just put a B12 engine in it if I wanted to bite off more than I can chew :)

I will have to see how it does stock.

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Holeshot picked up around 10 rear wheel horse with a full system and a stage one jet kit on the 600 kat, I would guess the 750 would be the same. I would say start off with a full system and a stage one kit then drop the gearing in the front. I have looked a bit and it seems that the kat 750 was around 90 horse at the wheel. With a full pipe and a good jet kit It should be able to come close to 100 bhp at the wheel. Or like you said you could swap a b-12 motor then drop more money and get like 120 bhp LOL!  It's a kat just ride it for what it is and stay away from Coshocton with it. 

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it already has a Yosh pipe.  Not sure it's a full system though.

 

Gearing is cheaper than power upgrades.  that's why I'm messing with gearing first.  And maybe I will like the stock setup.  15/45 is my baseline.  I would try 15/47 next, I think.

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