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What STREET gearing do you run?


redkow97
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Street gearing poll  

36 members have voted

  1. 1. What gearing do you run on your STREET bike?

    • Stock gearing. I like it.
    • I am geared slightly taller for better acceleration
    • I am geared slightly shorter, for lower highway RPM
    • I have the world's largest rear sprocket for power-wheelies/stunts.


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You can only redline in 6th now because you're going slow enough to. I don't see the point....

 

the thought behind it is using all of the RPM band....if youre bike doesnt make enough hp to redline in 6th, then its wasted rpm....why do 150 max speed at 10krpm, when you can do the same 150 at 12k and have better acceleration everywhere else....essentially youre picking up acceleration, and not giving anything away up top because your bike wasnt using all of the rpm range anyways....i will be doing the same, my cb wont redline in 6th, i plan to change the gearing....if shes done at 150ish, id rather be at redline at that speed than below, if it means picking up some much unnecessary, yet quite fun, bottom end grunt

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+2 on the rear of my SV. Better acceleration and now can redline in 6th.

 

i am clueless about gearing other than the very basics....is there any benefit to going 0/+2 as opposed to -1/+1 ? jumping up 2 in the rear seems more convenient than switching both sprockets?

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Eh....does the benefit really outweigh the cost? Do you really do 160 that much? While I am an acceleration junkie, and believe me I am, I love the massive surge of torque that makes your eyeballs flatten out, I just don't see the point. Then again I'm working with a much bigger motor.

Butters, cost is a factor. so is ease. As a mechanic I'd much rather change a rear sprocket than a front. Less drama involved. As far as gross impact on ratio, here's a calculator that will answer your questions:

http://www.gearingcommander.com

Edited by CrazySkullCrusher
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Eh....does the benefit really outweigh the cost? Do you really do 160 that much? While I am an acceleration junkie, and believe me I am, I love the massive surge of torque that makes your eyeballs flatten out, I just don't see the point. Then again I'm working with a much bigger motor.

Butters, cost is a factor. so is ease. As a mechanic I'd much rather change a rear sprocket than a front. Less drama involved. As far as gross impact on ratio, here's a calculator that will answer your questions:

http://www.gearingcommander.com

That's the point... How often do you do 160? I'd rather do 155 with a off the line grunt than 160... I don't do 150 often, so it won't bother me to lose some rpm on the big end to have more hooligan fun below 100?

I'm all about acceleration and hooligan shit lol... I don't mind trimming a few mph off the big end to make 0-80 quicker

Edited by Steve Butters
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Eh....does the benefit really outweigh the cost?

The cost is just a sprocket that you're gonna replace anyway and a few mpgs. If I didn't have crazy torque already, and a speedo that is driven by the trans, I'd consider gearing down. If you're gonna spend all your time at 10k rpm you may as well get there quicker.

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The cost is just a sprocket that you're gonna replace anyway and a few mpgs. If I didn't have crazy torque already, and a speedo that is driven by the trans, I'd consider gearing down. If you're gonna spend all your time at 10k rpm you may as well get there quicker.

I think this is what I meant to say

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Bandit 1200. 67 lbs torque stock. With the mods I've done it's around 80. Basically a punched out gsxr1100 motor with a cam profile tuned for midrange torque. Add a pipe, filters, jets, 5° ignition advance and gsxr intake cam and it becomes one hell of an ass kicker. Mine has a touring package on it so I can embarrass kids on supersports by whipping them from light to light with a bagger.

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On the 1000rr , factoring in the change from a 50 profile to a 55 profile rear tire I am currently running a 6.8% higher ratio than stock with +1, +1 sprockets. There is still sufficient torque for 2nd gear power wheelies & I get better gas mileage. I went the other way (-5.7%, -1,+1) for a while & it was fun but I do prefer the "taller" gearing I have now.

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The cost is just a sprocket that you're gonna replace anyway and a few mpgs. If I didn't have crazy torque already, and a speedo that is driven by the trans, I'd consider gearing down. If you're gonna spend all your time at 10k rpm you may as well get there quicker.

 

and on a track bike where you do spend all your time between 10k and 15k, I would 100% agree, but I am talking about a bike that I will be commuting on...  an extra 1000 RPM at 70mph might get seriously annoying before I even think about the loss in economy.

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Eh....does the benefit really outweigh the cost? Do you really do 160 that much? While I am an acceleration junkie, and believe me I am, I love the massive surge of torque that makes your eyeballs flatten out, I just don't see the point. Then again I'm working with a much bigger motor.

Butters, cost is a factor. so is ease. As a mechanic I'd much rather change a rear sprocket than a front. Less drama involved. As far as gross impact on ratio, here's a calculator that will answer your questions:

http://www.gearingcommander.com

Actually made quite the difference on my bike. Gained acceleration, and picked up 5 mph on top end. If your an acceleration junkie, why wouldn't you see the point in a +2 rear with no detrimental effects? How does a +2 kit cost more than a stock kit? I just bought a Driven Steel Sprocket Kit with EK MVXZ chain for $165. I could order from a 14 -17 tooth front and 42 - 50 tooth rear for all the same price.

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and on a track bike where you do spend all your time between 10k and 15k, I would 100% agree, but I am talking about a bike that I will be commuting on...  an extra 1000 RPM at 70mph might get seriously annoying before I even think about the loss in economy.

my 6th is pretty tall... I doubt it would affect my commute much.. but as i stated in my explanation, first gear would be completely useless.

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Bandit 1200. 67 lbs torque stock. With the mods I've done it's around 80. Basically a punched out gsxr1100 motor with a cam profile tuned for midrange torque. Add a pipe, filters, jets, 5° ignition advance and gsxr intake cam and it becomes one hell of an ass kicker. Mine has a touring package on it so I can embarrass kids on supersports by whipping them from light to light with a bagger.

Idk about calling that a lot more motor... I'd put my bike up against that light to light for sure... My bike makes more hp and torque stock, and is also tuned for low and mid hp... Not saying your bike is slow or even that mines faster, but I wouldn't by any means say your bike is a lot more motor...

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his is more motor, yours is more efficient. 

 

200 fewer cubic centimeters and liquid cooling has that effect.

 

I think gearing could actually affect that race quite a bit.  The distance might dictate whether or not you wanted/needed to shift into 2nd gear at all on the CB1000.

 

bogging a bit on the start, but avoiding the up-shift time could be the winning combo.

Edited by redkow97
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Bandit 1200. 67 lbs torque stock. With the mods I've done it's around 80. Basically a punched out gsxr1100 motor with a cam profile tuned for midrange torque. Add a pipe, filters, jets, 5° ignition advance and gsxr intake cam and it becomes one hell of an ass kicker. Mine has a touring package on it so I can embarrass kids on supersports by whipping them from light to light with a bagger.

This kid on a super sport is up to that light to light challenge and I'll raise you a twistie challenge for giggles and shits.

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