BMW M5 Folks: Come on in

[Fiji ST]

swapalease.com ?

[Versluis]

Go talk to Trey at MAG Audi, text me and I'll give you his number if you don't have it. I know people don't like Toy Barn on here but they usually have a good stock of choices. I keep my eye on them for whenever I get out of my GLI.

 

MAG has this one right now. Personally I love that optioned interior.

 

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=43017&endYear=2015&modelCode1=S4&showcaseOwnerId=0&startYear=2010&makeCode1=AUDI&listingTypes=all&searchRadius=25&showcaseListingId=0&mmt=%5BAUDI%5BS4%5B%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&listingId=386140202&Log=0

Edited March 6, 2015 by Versluis

[Trouble Maker]

Do you plan to put adults in the rear seats? A4 chassis is pretty small.

 

How big (fat) are these adults that won't fit in the back of a new A4 sized car? New ones are much bigger than my old B5 and it fit 4 people just fine.

 

Sure, if you want a bigger car, that's fine. Will it be 'more comfortable' sure. But to say adults can't fit in the back of something the size of an a4 just fine is at best a stretch of the truth.

[Zx2guy19]

Go talk to Trey at MAG Audi, text me and I'll give you his number if you don't have it. I know people don't like Toy Barn on here but they usually have a good stock of choices. I keep my eye on them for whenever I get out of my GLI.

 

MAG has this one right now. Personally I love that optioned interior.

 

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=43017&endYear=2015&modelCode1=S4&showcaseOwnerId=0&startYear=2010&makeCode1=AUDI&listingTypes=all&searchRadius=25&showcaseListingId=0&mmt=%5BAUDI%5BS4%5B%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&listingId=386140202&Log=0

 

Fuck, you just ruined my life lol. (Kidding)

 

If I were to look for one, I'd look for 3 things: White exterior, black interior, under 30k. I really do not think I could afford $40k, as much as I love that thing.

[adamgh81]

I've always liked both the E39 M5 as well as the E55 AMG but have been leaving toward the E55 more as the wife requests an auto...I could deal with that. Personally I've never been a fan of Audi, but that's just my opinion.

[Zx2guy19]

I think I am going to look at an S4 tonight- 52k miles, 27k.

 

I'm negative 3k on my lease (out of pocket), I'll put 2k down, at 3.25% my payment would be $425 over 5 years. Right now I'm leading my Accord for $323- a clear choice to me. Sure, I piss away 5k, but welcome to life.

[Geeto67]

why are you $3K negative on your lease?

 

Also why did you lease an accord? and how did you get a $323 lease on a car that normally leases out for $200?

[Versluis]

Or..... you could go this route

 

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=378834218&Log=0

[Zx2guy19]

why are you $3K negative on your lease?

 

Also why did you lease an accord? and how did you get a $323 lease on a car that normally leases out for $200?

 

All valid questions.

 

I am 3k negative because the payoff is $19,700 and my guess (based on KBB, Nada, etc.) is that I won't be offered any more than 17k for the car.

 

I leased a 2013 Accord Sport- it was a 26k car and I was negative on my piece of shit 2012 Hyundai that I desperately wanted out of, so I bit the bullet and went from an "own" to a lease. Same payment, but I rolled over that negative equity.

 

And FWIW, an Accord Sport doesn't lease out for $200. Neither does an Accord LX- cheapest I've seen is $219 for an LX, and I worked for a supplier with a Honda discount.

[Geeto67]

All valid questions.

 

I am 3k negative because the payoff is $19,700 and my guess (based on KBB, Nada, etc.) is that I won't be offered any more than 17k for the car.

 

I leased a 2013 Accord Sport- it was a 26k car and I was negative on my piece of shit 2012 Hyundai that I desperately wanted out of, so I bit the bullet and went from an "own" to a lease. Same payment, but I rolled over that negative equity.

 

And FWIW, an Accord Sport doesn't lease out for $200. Neither does an Accord LX- cheapest I've seen is $219 for an LX, and I worked for a supplier with a Honda discount.

 

I'm starting to see a pattern here. you were negative on the hyundai so you transferred that to the accord. Now you are negative on the accord (partially because of the Hyundai) and you want to transfer that debt to the S4 (and you figure you'll lose $5K). What happens when you want to dump the S4 because that first maintenance came back at $2K and you realize it's too expensive a car to own? you going to roll $5K of hyundai, honda, and audi into something else?

 

Look I'm no financial adviser but it seems like a no brainier that you should wait until your lease is up - take the $3K hit and then proceed with the S4. If you can afford the $425 payment then bank the $102 difference between it and your existing payment till may and you'll have about $1200 to put toward the $3K difference. Plus all the 2008s you are looking at will be one year cheaper.

 

and not to be argumentative, but using honda's website calculator I got the lease option for an accord sport to be either $216 (if I put $2K down) or $266 with zero down. I get that the Hyundai loss probably made up the difference in that $323 number and that's a bummer because with interest you probably paid more for than loss than you ought to.

 

I have to imagine someone else on here will weigh in and tell me I'm wrong, so I totally get that but I think you are heading down a road that will snowball the bad hyundai situation even worse.

[Zx2guy19]

I'm starting to see a pattern here. you were negative on the hyundai so you transferred that to the accord. Now you are negative on the accord (partially because of the Hyundai) and you want to transfer that debt to the S4 (and you figure you'll lose $5K). What happens when you want to dump the S4 because that first maintenance came back at $2K and you realize it's too expensive a car to own? you going to roll $5K of hyundai, honda, and audi into something else?

 

Look I'm no financial adviser but it seems like a no brainier that you should wait until your lease is up - take the $3K hit and then proceed with the S4. If you can afford the $425 payment then bank the $102 difference between it and your existing payment till may and you'll have about $1200 to put toward the $3K difference. Plus all the 2008s you are looking at will be one year cheaper.

 

and not to be argumentative, but using honda's website calculator I got the lease option for an accord sport to be either $216 (if I put $2K down) or $266 with zero down. I get that the Hyundai loss probably made up the difference in that $323 number and that's a bummer because with interest you probably paid more for than loss than you ought to.

 

I have to imagine someone else on here will weigh in and tell me I'm wrong, so I totally get that but I think you are heading down a road that will snowball the bad hyundai situation even worse.

 

Again, valid points. I bought a brand new Veloster when I was 22, like an idiot- worst financial decision of my life. I traded it in after 40 days and took a big hit- traded it on a 2013 Accent. Hated that car too (young and dumb, truthfully) and traded it in on my 2013 Accord.

 

As far as financially, I am going to pay the difference on the Audi out of pocket to stop the snowball effect. Luckily, I'm in a successful enough place in my life to do that fairly easily, and still put extra money down. I also look at it like this:

 

Drive a car I don't love, but don't hate, for $323 a month and have it continue to do nothing from an equity standpoint (at the end of the lease, I'm giving it back and getting nothing in return, AND, I'm projected to go about 12k over on my mileage which is a $1,200 plus depreciation hit.)

 

Or, I can trade it in now, take the hit now and save my mileage penalty ($1200) and start to build some kind of equity with a new car at about an extra $100 a month (I'm thinking my payment will be $425-450 with 5k down).

 

Honestly, I've made some pretty dumb ass financial decisions when it comes to cars. Luckily, I've some better decisions with houses that have put me in a position to have this 'problem'.

 

Finally- since I'll have a fun DD, I'll sell my 240 (I think I'll get 5-6k for that) to make up for the down payment. So all in all, I will own a car for an extra $100 a month instead of pissing it away on a lease.

[Lauren]

+1

 

Great post and solid advice.

 

 

However it isn't the American way lol

[Geeto67]

except in very rare cases (e.g. BMW 1M) there is no such thing as "equity" in a new car. It's a losing proposition from day one. Let's just be clear about that you aren't signing up to "build" anything just "lose less". In 1995 at 17 years old I paid $19K in cash for a jeep wrangler (about $26,500 in today's money) and 20 years later I am still driving that same car and it is worth at best, maybe $5K (inline 6 with 5 speed manual and mostly stock unmolested). I've actually lost more money than I paid because of the power of inflation and purchasing power.

 

Wanna know the only new car I ever saw "equity" On? two months after buying the wrangler I won a 1995 S-10 blazer (in 1990's teal) in a raffle, and somehow managed to get the charity to pay the tax too. What happened to that equity? I gave it to my mother so she could trade it in 1999 for a 2 door tahoe sport. Now at 175,000 miles they want to give it back to me (brake lines rusted out but still runs great plus new tranny) - so my $100 raffle ticket netted me $2500 of "equity" at the end.

 

We all make stupid decisions with money when we are young. The important thing is to learn from it. It's your money and you have it handled, as long as you are being smart about this. When I was single and had a good job I would buy second cars and motorcycles like it was nothing and if I took a couple grand hit - no biggie. Now that I have a wife and kids and debt and stuff I which I had ever dollar I figuratively burned on stupid things like a bandit trans am project car or my money pit kawasaki triple vintage race bike (10 years and still not race ready!). Just trying to be the voice of reason is all.

 

Of course I also miss the invincible days of being young enough to consider Tuesday night a "heavy drinking night" but that is another story for another time.

[oh8sti]

You dont need to spend $30k on a car. I paid $17k for my E55 and it has 73,000 well cared for miles and has some of the best creature comforts someone could want in a car.

[coltboostin]

I wont say what I paid for my CTS-V but it was way below Market-and still cheaper than anything on AutoTrader even to this day.

 

The issue here is not this though-IMO you need to even up on this car, buy a $2500 Civic and get you finances right for a year or more. If your car situation is all fucked up, chances are there ware some other things out of whack with your finances too,

[cdk 4219]

You dont need to spend $30k on a car. I paid $17k for my E55 and it has 73,000 well cared for miles and has some of the best creature comforts someone could want in a car.

 

Yes,just wait until you have to fix your $17k 10 year old AMG. The instrument cluster will certainly remind you that there is something wrong. They are nice when they work, but costly when they don't. The regular maintenance on that car includes an EBC pump that has pre determined lifespan from the factory, and with a city commute you may be close to the limit pushing the brake pedal. At least they aren't quite as bad as Porsches.

[cdk 4219]

I am potentially looking at getting a new car in the next 6-12 months. I love my 2013 Accord and have considered keeping it, but it's piss slow (6 speed manual sport series) and I find myself underwhelmed in the fun department.

 

That said, I'm looking at a few usedcars around the 20-30k range, specifically ones that offer luxury and speed, such as the M5, E55, etc.

 

Anything I should look out for in the 2006-2010 range for the BMW's, and if I should run from them, what are some other cars in that price range and that type?

 

My one thing: it HAS to be 4 door, no exception. Auto or Manual, at this point in my life, I really don't care.

 

Thanks in advance

In your position, I certainly wouldn't even touch one of those cars without a very good warranty, but most of them are probably going to be out of warranty. BMW Mercedes and Porsche seem to pride themselves by building an automobile that would make Rube Goldberg proud. But they use very questionable design techniques and materials, making for car that fails more often than it should.

If you think that you are upside down driving a Honda, which is one of the more dependable automobiles on the road, you more than likely will be buried in a Fine German car. If you think that these cars are as reliable as a "regular" car they are not, the people who tell you they are, are simply overlooking the bad designs because they love the car.

[Forrest Gump 9]

Yes,just wait until you have to fix your $17k 10 year old AMG. The instrument cluster will certainly remind you that there is something wrong. They are nice when they work, but costly when they don't. The regular maintenance on that car includes an EBC pump that has pre determined lifespan from the factory, and with a city commute you may be close to the limit pushing the brake pedal. At least they aren't quite as bad as Porsches.

 

EBC is expired at 100k pump. From what I read you can reset it STAR with developer mode. Or replace the whole unit for about $1k in part.

 

I love your expertise in these vehicles, but everytime you post scare the crap out of me. Do you have any vehicle that you would recomend?

[Zx2guy19]

Bought it. Details tomorrow.

[TTQ B4U]

Bought it. Details tomorrow.

 

That was quick

[cdk 4219]

I don't have many problems with Toyota, my Ctsv has not any problems, express van damn bulletproof 2500hd 4x4 good both Porsches disapointing mercedes lots of instrument warning and bullshit, all of the other cars I have are swaps , and I have less problems with those than I do the German cars, and most of the problems I have with those are related to the original German car itself, not the swap. Toyota and Lexus hands down the least problematic car I have owned, dealt with, or driven. Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, Volkswagon, jaguar Ford, in the order of most problematic to least problematic of the ones I have owned. The GM cars and trucks I have are pretty darned reliable.

 

Let's put it to you this way, of the 19 cars I own, if you asked me to drive to California to pick you up, I would drive my scion XB. The only Toyota I currently have. It has 107,000 miles on it, probably hasnt been properly serviced through its life, but through all of the Toyota Scion Lexus I have had, they have given me the least amount (if at all) of problems. If I took either of the Porsches (which prior to my owning them had been religiously serviced at the dealer, and have less than 80k miles) I reckon I would be on the side of the road. Either the E55 or the Sl55 ( both under 50,000 miles ) would more than likely go the distance, but if they broke, I would be renting a Kia to come and get you. The most reliable Mercedes I have is the 1985 500se which has almost 300,000 miles, that may go the distance.

 

To me German cars are disapointing high maintenance machines. Most of the problems I have found are due to the use of plastic and rubber components that fail or degrade over time. From the r129 sl600 that has failing wiring insulation and failing convertible top seals, to the coolant tubes under the intake of the cayenne turbo, or the failing glue that holds the coolant tubes in the 996 turbo. Most who own these cars, love them because most can't afford them and they can. They also think that these cars perform unbelievably, to me they don't, as I have a lot of other cars that do that better.

 

When I have to repair a $100 to$150,000 car that fails due to poor design, or material choice, which many of the German cars have, I don't appreciate it. Everything has a lifespan, but failures in these cars are high at low mileage. Automobiles are contrary to the popular belief that you get what you pay for. You pay for a status symbol.

Edited March 7, 2015 by cdk 4219

[cdk 4219]

EBC is expired at 100k pump. From what I read you can reset it STAR with developer mode. Or replace the whole unit for about $1k in part.

 

I love your expertise in these vehicles, but everytime you post scare the crap out of me. Do you have any vehicle that you would recomend?

 

Yes you can reset it with star, but the reason it has a predetermined life, is because it will fail, leaving you with NO brakes, more than likely at an extremely in opportune time with a 500hp 4000lb car and maybe your family in it, and a Prius full of nuns in front of you. This is the mindset of the German car manufacturer, not to make quality long lasting vehicles, but to make a car that has constantly renewable revenue, not only to the dealer but to the manufacturer. Why is it that people have no problem driving, selling , and buying Hondas and toyotas well into the 200,000 mile mark, but at 100,000 miles a porsche, mercedes or BMW are depreciated to their fullest and considered essentially worthless? Because they aren't built as well, and exremely over engineered, sometimes dangerously as described above. If Toyota put electric brakes in their cars, knowing they WOULD fail at some point, if you didn't replace it at he dealer, this would be on the national evening news, but because it is a Mercedes, that is good? Doesn't make any sense to me.

[Forrest Gump 9]

Yeah, I get you on the Toyota and Lexus, but they are damn boring. Most of my family do own Lexus, I'm the only idiot that play with German cars. I guess I like to gamble lol

[oh8sti]

Yes,just wait until you have to fix your $17k 10 year old AMG. The instrument cluster will certainly remind you that there is something wrong. They are nice when they work, but costly when they don't. The regular maintenance on that car includes an EBC pump that has pre determined lifespan from the factory, and with a city commute you may be close to the limit pushing the brake pedal. At least they aren't quite as bad as Porsches.

 

Im aware of the costs of ownership with a car like this. I did my research and it seems to be a solid car. Buying used anything you run into this issue no matter what car it is. Gotta pay to play right?

[zeitgeist57]

CTS-V: cheap performance sedan FTW.