ReconRat

It's.... air conditioned...

Done that. Done the deep draw to make it work longer and better also. Draw too low and it's dead. A fact of modern life, in every houshold can be found a dead battery. An expensive one, usually.

Ok.... good reason to remove the helmet. When entering a carryout. Or anywhere else for that matter, RIP. Cincinnati police investigating store clerk's fatal shooting of man wearing motorcycle helmet Ohio Police:Store Clerk Kills Man Wearing Motorcycle Helmet Mason man shot and killed by grocery store clerk edit: ok, if you read the last article, they knew each other, and were arguing. Apparently much more than it appears to be.

Balance or replace the tire. Most places will do that. Can you tell if it's front or rear?

yup, tell kentucky dude to piss off in your finest British accent. edit: or... agree, and then when late (never) call and say your car/truck broke down... muhahahaha

Way too much work, and might not work the first try: And should be able to cut AR500 with carbide tools. Barely. ... http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/9995-heat-treat-for-ar500/?p=121081

nah, some compression and quantum paralleling will make it easy. a small base data set, and quantum entanglement would force duplication of the original there ya go, fixed it for ya

Here he is two years ago in a practice session, back when they called themselves "Taters United". Rather cool song... http://youtu.be/S3BiwyQtwaU

I do it all the time. Just random turns left and right on a general heading. Sometimes using a lot of tiny back roads that just look interesting. More direct to go home when it gets late, but still avoid freeways for the most part. Usually a full tank of gas, about 200 miles. 3 or 4 hours. Exploring. Some times I'll hit the Ohio border, before starting back.

don't forget to export firefox bookmarks to an html file if you don't want to loose them

ccleaner and defraggler - run multiple times ditto the remove programs first or, reinstall operating system - nothing better than that

Not sure why it stained. Birchwood Casey B&R Remover is mostly phosphoric acid with a little bit of sulphuric and oxalic acid. Guessing that it might have picked up color from the rust or a dye in the microfiber cloth. Try standard cleaning methods that won't harm finish and might remove the stain. Assuming first that it is an easy surface stain. Either the flitz or similar to polish it off, or a brush with bore solvent or similar to lift it off. edit: do not try to bleach it. Chlorine isn't good for corrosion resistant steel or stainless steel or titanium. That includes any cleaners, solvents or other products that might have chlorine in them. Tap water with it's chlorine is never used on titanium. Even a sharpie pen has to be validated to not contain chlorine.

is the photograph dark, or is that a Nitron finish on your stainless steel?

I watch the websites that show the foreclosures and bank owned. Not sure about a recovery yet, since the number of properties appears to have doubled. And it wasn't good to begin with. If there appears to be a shortage, it's probably because the financial institutions cannot double in size to handle the load. Of course, that won't stop the rates from rising.

Medina, I agree with what you say. I've done the 0000 with oil trick on old blued steel weapons, and it removed the rust and not the blueing. Yes, I was very careful. Yes, I had doubts. Found the info in a turn of the century (1900) gunsmithing book. Bluing and salt browning is finished with 0000 and oil. No idea what is used before blueing. Other than cleaning. It left a bare spot where the rust had been. It did not appear to change the adjacent bluing at all. I blued the spots with a good blueing pen and can't see the touch up. I'm not a gunsmith, I'm an ex-engineer with experience in materials and surface coatings. I saw that bronze/copper/brass wool on-line, and wouldn't mind having some around. Looks useful. Might as well, I'm a big fan of bronze brushes on the bike.

The proper way to remove rust from a blued steel gun is to gently scrub it with 0000 steel wool and gun oil. It doesn't remove blueing, it will polish. That's how blueing is polished. Touch up with a blueing pen. Stainless steel is like a kitchen counter top with a high nickel content. A firearm is stronger CRES - corrosion resistant steel. The surface can rust, even if passivated to remove the top exposed iron from the surface. Trick is not changing the surface finish of the firearm. I'd try mild acidic liquids first to remove the rust. White vinegar or lemon juice. I keep a bottle of the white vinegar around to soak hardware parts in. edit: If it's real bad, I might try a very fine scotch brite pad (the white one) from the hardware or automotive store, wet with the vinegar. Do not use steel wool on aluminum. Big mistake. And don't use aluminum anything on titanium. Bigger mistake. Not even ever touching it. Hell, don't even assemble bare aluminum and bare stainless steel (CRES type) together. Not unless you're trying to build a battery. It will eat a hole right through the aluminum (when wet). edit again: I think I'll look for some sort of firearm brand rust remover. Might be good to have around. But that will remove blueing, of course, since blueing is technically a corrosion of the steel surface. Hoppe's and Birchwood make liquids. And there are a couple of brands of cloth type rust removers.

good point, that's one vacuum leak that will shut off fuel. The o-ring seal on the lid at the carb diaphragm. I suppose we can count the vacuum operated fuel shut off petcock also. Exceptions to every rule. edit: I think some carb diaphragms have the seal built in, and no o-ring. but I've seen some leak where I've had to seal them with something. Cheap trick is grease them where they need to seal. Might swell up and break again, but if they live through fuel and alcohol, I don't figure grease is going to hurt them. I'd have to know what type of polymer/rubber they were made out of to know for sure.

Government website removes "whistle blower" promises from change.gov ... http://www.techdirt.com/articles/20130726/01200123954/obama-promise-to-protect-whistleblowers-just-disappeared-changegov.shtml http://sunlightfoundation.com/blog/2013/07/25/obama-promises-disappear-from-web/

vacuum leak problems mostly go away when revved up. Sooo, fuel flow or spark. Roughly, if the plugs are dry, it's lacking fuel. If the plugs are wet, it's lacking spark. edit: I hate carbs with diaphrams. They are always breaking. But they are smooth.

The back window of all vehicles is meant to pop out easier than all the others. Use that one. Hatchbacks, you're on your own. Fresh water won't short out a battery right away, if at all. Cars have been found with lights on underwater for hours. Yes, the water pressure has to equalize before most people can open a door. That would be when the vehicle is nearly full of water, and the water coming in slows down, since the pressure is equalizing. Too many people do not know how to swim. That doesn't help.

Yes, it used to be a fairly common practice around Columbus. Although always questionable. (Horse meat.) Most cities and burbs chased them away. I'm pretty sure at one time there was a semi-national outfit backing the sales, like door to door magazine sales. But that was many years ago, and this current outfit would be different and quite questionable. The previous practice was sales, and then a big freezer truck would stop by and deliver, pretty much the same day.

same here, really basic nav. My phone probably works better.

me cheap. 40 buck refurbished TomTom. Works.

Switch to Bosch injectors. They atomize much better. Fuel mileage and performance increases. A Jeep friend convinced me to do the change. I can't remember what website sold them, but they were rebuilts and low cost.

dang, I'd have paid them 80 bucks for the diagnosis and bought my own parts...