what

a lot of people don't. you guys are going to be down on lap times there when they repave this winter and MA starts running there though. sucks to be you. see you in novice, buddy.

how do you like your spartans btw? i'm going to be looking into a custom suit this winter i think - I remember spartan starting up on SVRider years ago, owner seemed pretty into it at the time. looking at the khazakstan/pakmanistan companies too like plus/comet since they offer some discounts.

it was a joke, "one M(id)O(hio) day" no reason for people to go to mid ohio if they get free track days elsewhere

one Mid Ohio day?

I may have something for both street and track next season. Will leave it at that for now.

starbucks opened up across the street and stole all ducati north's customers.

welcome to a world where only iron pony survives, on a throne of blood and bone laid by its overpaying customers

Wish I coulda made it. Dang work.

gotta have some kind of trade-off for the superior handling characteristics of the honda.

Think what you want. All I know is my shifts are smooth and the cbr burns half as much oil since I put Amsoil in it vs. Mobile or whatever the shop mnual calls for. Rotella seems to break down faster at the track and I dont trust it 🤷‍♂️

amsoil 4 lyfe

I think you might be one of the people wearing bikinis, in his mind...

Since it has been mentioned, if anyone needs any tune work done I'd highly recommend The Dyno Shop in Powell.

Tickets acquired, camp spot acquired. Thanks @jacobhawkins Leathers are coming along in hopes we can somehow persuade our way onto the kart track for a little bit after the Ohvale Cup

Yes this is what i'm saying, I'm not sure why all this debate is happening over proven physics. As for standing the bike up, any reduction in lean angle is, by definition, the bike standing up. Unless I'm having to drastically increase my radius because of unforeseen circumstances, I am never standing the bike up completely in a corner. I thought I explained above that throttle adjustment, altering body position by putting more weight on the inside of the bike, and light brake application (or any combination of the 3) is what's used for minute changes in line while cornering, but I must have been unclear. My point about braking with the front for mid-corner line alteration is that I prefer to use throttle and body position to tighten/widen my line before re-applying or increasing pressure on the front brake leading into the apex. In my experience it's easier to get away with doing 2 of those 3 things when tightening my turn radius before I run into the feeling of losing the front.

Finally, @Tonik shows up to get this thread back on the rails and in line with his first post.

just a difference in preference I guess. And I never said either of them added lean, I said dipping/moving more inside on the bike lessens lean angle, which is 100% accurate. The reason dipping lets you tighten your line is because it stands the bike up a bit, allowing you to put more input into the bars, making your turn a bit tighter while maintaining your previous lean angle. You don't decrease your lean angle by doing this in practice but if you were to "dip" and not also maintain lean angle, the bike would end up more upright than before. The more body mass you move to the inside of the bike while leaned over, the less the bike itself stays leaned. This is all assuming your definition of "dipping" is moving your head/upper body down and inside more.

Yeah but dipping lessens the lean angle on the bike without also adding resistance to the front tire. There's resistance load(braking) and there's lateral load(speed + lean angle) - if I don't have to deal with adding more of both at the same time, it's my preference.

My point was that I would rather "dip" or whatever you want to call it to tighten my line rather than mess with adding more load to my tires unnecessarily.

This is all ideal condition theory as well. Sometimes you fuck up your braking zone because you and the guy you're passing decide you're both going to drag race and try to out-brake each other and then almost eat it when you start to tip in because you've both blown the corner and are danger-close to turning 2 bikes into 1 (I'm on the grom in the black leathers)

If I'm having to adjust my line it's usually because I'm trying to pass or some dipwad I'm 6" away from decided he's going to intrude in my path of travel or has crashed and I now need to avoid their flailing body. Smooth, minute line adjustments leading to apex are done by modulating my trail braking, or, if I'm not actively on the brakes going into a corner, using throttle and body position to dictate lean angle/tightness of the turn. In regard to riders dropping their head to alter line, it's also good practice to drop your head while driving out of corners in general as it lets you stand the bike up faster and get into the power sooner. The best way to tighten a line mid corner is to get off the bike more and not rely on the brakes at all. We are kind of getting into the "how do you not crash while racing" weeds in this street riding thread at this point, hehe.

If your get on the throttle, it makes the bike stand up. If you get on the brakes (forcefully), it makes the bike stand up. I avoid using my front brake for line adjustments mid corner because the danger of tucking the front is highest near the apex and generally that's when I'm having to adjust/tighten my line... not the best moment to be adding additional stress to the front tire - so I stick with rear brake or less maintenance throttle. Obviously if I'm wanting to swing wider on corner exit I get on the throttle earlier to adjust my line. I had assumed that linked brakes would add more stress to the front and increased the chances of tucking, but those with linked brakes in this thread say they have had no issue so I'll believe them over my assumption.

Any forceful input applied to the wheels while leaned will cause the bike to want to stand up - either accelerating or braking - for the most part. You can feather your rear brake while rolling off the throttle to tighten your turn a bit, (or feather your rear brake coming out of corners as a poor man's wheelie control while maintaining drive) but in general just think input to wheels = bike will want to stop turning and go straight. It's a given though that if your brakes are linked, you probably can't use this method of line adjustment. ** **Apparently an incorrect statement according to @Jester_'s post. I have no linked brakes, ABS, or anything fancy schmancy to mess with so I'll take his word for it.

They were the fastest bike in the MotoAmerica Junior Cup last year until they put restrictions on them.

300 or 400 i cant read the tail