Cordell

What about a Saturn is a space frame? Basically just another unibody. I’m not sure how GM is designing this new thing because they’ve never really referred to anything as a space frame. Maybe I’m wrong? Starting with the C5 and ending with the base model C6 they used hydroformed frame rails that ran from the front bumper support to the rear bumper. C6 Z06s, C6 ZR1s, and all C7s use a multi piece aluminum frame with different sections welded together. They are a few different things, extruded aluminum rails, with cast aluminum sections where the front and rear suspension, ie cradles, are.

It's a space frame, how many other GM's have space frame? Ummm, that would be about zero. We're talking about "two fat blokes from Kentucky" here, they're figuring it out. Give it time.

Agree. Just glad the Browns are giving their fans hope.

Ok hopefully I can have the day off so I don’t have to call in sick. I’m in.

What I find funny here is what a shitty daily a rotary makes and how they are prone to blowing apex seals, and all these other cars are expensive to maintain or un practical. OP needs to go buy a fucking Prius.

So does it have E85 in it now? If it does I’d bet money that this is your issue. So basically run the truck empty, fill it with regualr gasoline, then drive it for an extended period of time without shutting it off. Before you possibly waste a bunch of time let me hook my tech 2 to the truck and check the flex fuel calculation. If that’s your problem you’ll chase your tail and never fix a godamn thing. It’ll take 5 minutes and if that’s not it you can go right on down this diagnosing road you’re on. I’m not working today, but I’m at Dan Tobin 5 days a week.

Have you been running E85? It sounds like it needs it’s calculated ethanol percentage reset.

Well....congrats? Why no compound turbo SRT4?

So after debating about selling it (again) and having all my friends and wife talk me out of it, I decided that I can’t leave it alone. I do really enjoy this car, but the last time I drove it the water pump failed. See above post with how I went overboard on cooling system upgrades. So before I get it back to the dyno so I can drive it again I will be adding the following; smaller blower pulley, methanol injection, and camshaft kit. I’ll be converting it to 2 bar, and the pulley will max the Si trim so it should be north of 600 wheel. Going to lean on this all original 22 year old LS1. Granted it only has 54k miles. Anything can happen so once everything gets together and I tune it hopefully it’ll stay together. So here’s to trying to make too much horsepower in an “autocross” car LOL.

Kerry is pretty much spot on in regards to the Vette. Most are babied, it’s unlikely to find a rusty one. I’m sure they’re out there but I’m sure they’d be rough in more ways then just that. Going to reiterate that a BRZ/FRS is probably a fantastic car considering what you have now and have said. I like most on CR love my V8s and wouldn’t buy a V6 or 4 cylinder Camaro or Mustang, however having driven at least the 1LE versions of the Camaro they are fantastic cars. You used to have to have the V8 for the good suspension and parts, and that’s not the case anymore. If the V8 isn’t a top priority for you then you should check them out.

You’ve been in some real junk C5s haven’t you? Only ragged outs one rattle, and piss poor suspension set ups crush your spine, my car does neither. Having driven more Corvettes then most people I know what I’m talking about. You need to stop bashing something you know nothing about just because you rode in some brothers uncles ragged out high mileage C5.

Low mileage C5. I paid less then that for my car with 50k on it. Most Corvettes are very clean and well maintained unlike so many other things. Obviously I’m biased but that’s my 2 cents. There’s always Miatas, S2000s, and the like. Maybe there are decent deals on BRZs. These imo are all suitable Rx8 replacements.

No, I can tell you GM specifically puts them together and drives them off the assembly line. They don’t have us do anything related to engine break in before they are sold, and just want you to bring the car in for it’s first oil change at 5-7k miles. It’s like when I replace pistons and rings in an engine burning oil, slam them in and ship it. That’s it, that’s all I get paid for and all they want. According to GM the machining and tolerances are very good (lol) and they don’t need any special treatment. Of course they also say to not change any fluid other then your oil for the first 100k miles, and that’s about as big of a joke as going 10k miles on regular bulk oil.

It really depends on too many factors to say one way or the other. I can see it working out just fine if: 1. The vehicle is not loaded in a way to make the suspension sag excessively or bottom out while towing. 2. Is not driven in a way that over taxes the driveline, like driving in mountains, or in high heat, these things that will make the engine, transmission, or even the rear axle overheat. 3. Your brakes don’t get over taxed, similar to above this can cause brake fluid to boil or pads to fail which can lead to a loss of brakes. I have personally even seen small pop-up style campers come with electric brakes so this issue can be eliminated, it’s an added expense to set up the vehicle to use them but IMHO a good idea if you’re pushing the limits a little. I think it may be very doable, but driving a vehicle at it’s limit takes a certain level of caution and requires you to pay attention to what’s going on. Temp gauges, and giving the vehicle periodic “rests” would be wise. Anyway there’s my 2 cents, have a nice day.

Just wait until the torque converter shudder starts Manuals are going away, most Corvettes and Camaros I see now are autos. A good auto trans (mostly) but an auto nonetheless. I’ll just enjoy driving as long as I can, the whole transportation industry is likely to change in my lifetime anyway, time will tell.

The only good way to know which side it is, is to watch the wheel speeds drop out on a scan tool. I’ve never had much luck just replacing the sensor, it all has to do with the air gap changing as these get older and rusty. I know the hub assembly is expensive but there’s a reason I don’t give people the option at the dealer.

Love the Z28. Seriously considered one, but my 4th gen and C5 are paid off so.... Hope you see you out, I like your taste in cars.

15 years ago I had my Camaro, so nothings changed just added to. thanks for the :dumb:

This. I wasn’t on CR in 2004 so...

By “none of the lights up front” I assume you mean headlights, running lights, everything. Only things they have in common is maybe the switch and the grounds. Sorry not very familiar with your vehicle.

Check grounds, common ground points maybe?

...it did that with the throttle steady? Looks like something created a vacuum leak. It’s interesting how the MAF shows less air consumption, and the MAP shows a drop in vacuum. Maintaining steady throttle shouldn’t cause a change in the MAF much at all, and 92kpa is almost no vacuum in the manifold (something I wouldn’t expected outside of WOT). Not positive what exactly you have going on but I’d start by ruling out a vacuum leak. Outside of the obvious intake gaskets and such, don’t forget about everything else hooked to the intake, EVAP components that may or may not be hooked up, the brake booster, HVAC controls, ect. Then I suppose I may verify my MAP reading with a vacuum gauge. What are the MAP readings at idle? I would expect a stock camshaft to be in the 30-40kpa area, my cammed Camaro is only around 55-60kpa for reference. If it’s normal at idle maybe something happens while cruising, maybe it’s not a vacuum leak, maybe it’s all fucked up. Not sure how much I can accomplish over the internet with you I don’t normally work that way. Hopefully my thoughts help you, good luck.

Sounds like you missed something in your tune or a sensor is dropping out. In other words if something like a MAF sensor or MAP sensor drops out for some reason (pinched wire, bad sensor, ect) the ECM will think there is no load, hence the trans slips because the pressure is load based. Or you have missed something in your tune and the load calculation is not accurate, or you messed up a trans table. Did you log engine load?

A little adhesion promoter under the stuff mentioned above and it’ll stay put, most of GM’s plastic trim is put on with that same stuff.

$200k?!? You better have some super killer income with all that school. Fuck that’s ridiculous.