mello dude

Looking on NADA... http://www.nadaguides.com/Motorcycles/2006/Honda/VFR8006-INTERCEPTOR-781cc/Values Ave price is $5090, for a bike in slightly more worn shape than yours. Yours is very cherry, so $5500 is fair. Just a note, the bike market seems somewhat soft.....

Hilarious...

http://www.originalbikespirits.com/products/spray-cleaner-polish/

Aw, cmon doc, tell us..... ST1300?

Another Vfr

Good luck on your resto..... I used to toy with old brit cars, but fact is still true --- Joe Lucas says dont drive at night. I dont have the patience to deal with that stuff....

I got a good laugh outta Crank......

Jon, mailbox is full. --I'm kinda interested in the Dainese Jacket. I saw in one of your photos a Dainese label with a 52 on it. Is that the same jacket? I'm up to come to Columbus and try it on if its a 54. https://www.flickr.com/photos/betstack/16503694563/in/photostream/

Good luck,Doc.Best wishes!

I'm from the keep it simple stupid school of thought. If you knock out and write down the numbers from the list below, 95% of the time, if there is a problem, it will be obvious. It got named the drill, when someone asked, --"Whats that drill you use to test the charging system?" Use it, it works..... Sorry for your electrical troubles. Well, looks like you gotta do…. “The Drill.” Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Your gonna have to fix that! Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too. Steps: - Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed. - With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two. These are R/R quick checks--- --- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.) - Check stator - 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off) - 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart) - 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart. - Repeat hot. ---- You would need to do this if you bike seems fine for awhile, but once getting on the hot side, the charging goes south. Ususally its stator insulation effing up when hot. This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.) http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

My next battery for the Valky http://www.motobatt.com/

Most bike shops have it in stock. If you ask for it, they should know what it is.............

Wow - very nice CB! -- With your bike, my biggest concern would be to use something that is too agressive on surfaces. I would use as the overall main cleaner - Original Bike Spirits Cleaner, it used to be the actual Honda Cleaner, before Honda move to another formula. http://www.originalbikespirits.com/products/spray-cleaner-polish/ You can use for most of the stuff on the bike - wheels, paint, frame. For tight nooks and crannys, use a soft tooth brush and Qtips. Always, always finish wipe with a fine micro fibre cloth. Nothing else. --- For your chrome, you could use Mothers Chrome polish..

My 2 cent are - bad advice begets back advice. While I have much respect for the guy who started us all on the vfr charging system improvement journey, in truth the VFRness is a temporary fix it to have while you have the OEM components. Will it stop the R/R or the stator from failing?.....NOT. So if I'm asked what to do on first glance on an unknown vfr, its always the same.... first test the system to gage the health of the charging system. (I have the procedure if anyone want it.."The Drill" its the same for any bike) Next get a voltmeter up front to watch what is going on. Then if the test shows something is whacked, then fix that. (Best R/R fix.. www.roadstercycle.com best stator... OEM. VFRness? Skip it.

Well if we keep getting fuckwads for the candidates.......

That's great! lol!

Can you mount tires on polished rims with out scratching? I gotta come out and take a look........

Redflex makes the cameras, and in most cases "leases" them to cities at no cost in exchange for 60% (average) of the revenues generated. So, that means Redflex is party to civil action on a traffic law to anyone who happens to get nailed. That's what really pisses me off, a private third party is in cahoots with the city government entities and should have nothing to do with a civil action enforcing a traffic law. That should be illegal.....

Wow, that was sweet! Some cajones going on and some very narrow sections. Great 2 strokes.... point, shoot, point, shoot, awesome.

On meters, I'm not a fan of the green/yellow/red light style because the range of the green is too wide and into the problem area in the low end. A digital is way better so you can see the trend of what is going on with the bike. Here's a link with plenty of ideas..... Lots guys just buy a waterproof meter from ebay........ http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/70384-post-your-voltmeter-mount-pics/ The thing with the charging system is the components are undersized and if something goes, it tend to take other stuff with it if its not fixed in a reasonable time frame. Plenty of guys on the stator connector either cut it out and solder direct or replace it with a much larger connector such as a Delphi MetriPack.

If your bike is in the 40k - 50k + range, yes, you are due for a charging system check. OEM stators typically will eat it at 50k, RR's much less. I'm not sure exactly what the 6th gen electric recall was about, but agree its a waste of bucks to reinstall OEM R/Rs, The stock stator is decent. That said, I recently fixed a '07 that the stator died at 15k miles, and it was the factory part.

Nice viffer gump. I'm with Bad, check out the charging system, especially the stator to R/R connector. They tend to burn. - I'm a bit of a VFR charging system guru if you have any questions. The on-board voltmeter is a good idea.

Awesome ride. I have lusted for a ride on the K1600GT version for quite a while. Come spring, give us a ride report.

Cool, looks fun!

Welcome dude -- ok I gots to know, how did you get that bike on the kitchen table?