What did you do to your bike today?

[zx3vfr]

Yeah. Winter oil filter. Prettt sure I said I just grabbed what Wally World had and would be going back to OEM for riding season. :tard:

[TimTheAzn]

I change my oil before I stop riding it for the season, but I also ride that oil out in the spring.

[Tonik]

 

I change my underwear before I stop riding for the season, But I also ride that underwear out in the spring.

[Tonik]

I forgot to point out, in the spring I turn it inside out so the dirty side is on the outside. Last damn near all summer that way.  Depends how many miles I do that season.

[Wandering Soul]

1 hour ago, Isaac's Papa said:

I will never understand why people change their oil before sticking the bike in storage, just to change it again in the spring. It's an engine. It's bathed in oil. Four months of storage will not even put a dent in that oil. Why so wasteful? It does nothing but lightening your wallet. The placebo game isn't even that strong. 

Arguing over what filter to use for winter storage is kind of dumb. Slightly more dumb than changing the oil for winter storage. It's not a houseplant. It's a fucking pile of metal soaked in oil. Nothing is going to happen in it. It won't die. It won't rust. 

Your chain and sprockets are another story. Most people don't touch those for storage, but "Holy Shit!!" themselves over engine oil. 

Boggles my mind. 

As "Grandpa" let me tell you why he's doing the right thing by changing his oil.  You've run your bike for what, 1000-3000 miles with the same oil?  You then let it set for say 3-5 months?

Shell bearings or roller bearings; doesn't matter.  That oil you let set all winter has unburned fuel, varnish, acid, dirt and other particles and nasties coating them.  It will pit them a bit at a time.  A fresh oil change while the motor's hot will flush the contaniments out, but not the pits.  Those remain and any metal particles/dirt what have you gets into those pits and grind merrily away on whatever mating surface they're supporting.  Not good.  Oh...doesn't do the seals any good either.

I know most of you may buy a new bike every 2 years or so; so any of that doesn't matter to you.  I just don't see the point in abusing a motor.

Now...if we can just get him out of Wally World's Fram department.  And what's this stuff called "underwear" you speak of?

[JustinNck1]

Never worried about the oil. I usually get a fresh tank of fuel and stabilizer, but then I end up riding at least a couple times each month of the winter so it doesn't really sit much. Just keep washing the salt off of it.

[Tonik]

25 minutes ago, Wandering Soul said:

As "Grandpa" let me tell you why he's doing the right thing by changing his oil.  You've run your bike for what, 1000-3000 miles with the same oil?  You then let it set for say 3-5 months?

Shell bearings or roller bearings; doesn't matter.  That oil you let set all winter has unburned fuel, varnish, acid, dirt and other particles and nasties coating them.  It will pit them a bit at a time.  A fresh oil change while the motor's hot will flush the contaniments out, but not the pits.  Those remain and any metal particles/dirt what have you gets into those pits and grind merrily away on whatever mating surface they're supporting.  Not good.  Oh...doesn't do the seals any good either.

I know most of you may buy a new bike every 2 years or so; so any of that doesn't matter to you.  I just don't see the point in abusing a motor.

Now...if we can just get him out of Wally World's Fram department.  And what's this stuff called "underwear" you speak of?

 

As a fellow 'Grandpa' let me point out what you missed in what IP (he is a fake hipster BTW) said.

He is not disputing changing the oil before you park it, he is disputing changing the oil before you park it and then in the spring changing it again.

" I will never understand why people change their oil before sticking the bike in storage, just to change it again in the spring. "

He raises a valid point.  As long as you are not firing the bike up during the winter and creating condensation in the crankcase there is no reason to change the oil in the spring.  And even if you did start it during the winter changing it would be debatable as the minimal condensation would burn out of the oil in about 20 miles.

Damn old people.

[zx3vfr]

29 minutes ago, Isaac's Papa said:

3k miles? Try 6k+ on the bikes and 10k in the car. 

Maybe like 6k as in 6 kilometers you peddling pansy

[Tpoppa]

I've never changed the oil before winter or first thing in the spring in any of my bikes unless it was due because of mileage.  In the winter I start them every six weeks or so.   Never had a problem of any kind.    

[motocat12]

There's only one rule: New is always better.(unless it's new from walmart)

[Casper]

On 12/1/2016 at 3:29 PM, what said:

The Triumph has an overheating problem all of a sudden, so checked cooling system for air, didn't see any come out, problem persisted. Will burp system again later to see if there's a stubborn bubble somewhere but I noticed white exhaust when I warmed the engine up so hoping I don't have a blown head gasket mixing shit together. With the care the techs at Motohio took reassembling the bike (none at all) this past spring after having the engine apart for the 24,000 mile service, I'm somewhat worried they fucked something up internally too and the gap trip shook something loose.

 

/crosses fingers for just air in system

//crosses toes for just air in system

What did Motohio do? 

[2talltim]

7 hours ago, Isaac's Papa said:

3k miles? Try 6k+ on the bikes and 10k in the car. 

 

6 hours ago, zx3vfr said:

Maybe like 6k as in 6 kilometers you peddling pansy

Same here I'll go 7k on the bike (per kawi recommend intervals) and when the car and truck get to about 10%on the ol dash meter usually around 10k.

I own cars with 225k, 197k, and 155k miles on them.And the bike has nearly 50k

Edited December 3, 2016 by 2talltim

[what]

22 minutes ago, Casper said:

What did Motohio do? 

12k/24k service, all fluids flushed/refilled. The guy I bought the bike from said that he had the 12k mile service done but I couldn't find any documentation supporting that so I had Motohio go through everything up to 24k. The two big issues I had right after the service were the bike pissing oil everywhere out of the drain plug (which was only finger tight), and the throttle not put back on correctly or tightened down causing it to stick wide open, which really sucked. 

 

I think it may just be air in the system that's being a pain in the ass to get out. At least I hope that's all it is.

Edited December 3, 2016 by what

[Casper]

54 minutes ago, what said:

12k/24k service, all fluids flushed/refilled. The guy I bought the bike from said that he had the 12k mile service done but I couldn't find any documentation supporting that so I had Motohio go through everything up to 24k. The two big issues I had right after the service were the bike pissing oil everywhere out of the drain plug (which was only finger tight), and the throttle not put back on correctly or tightened down causing it to stick wide open, which really sucked. 

 

I think it may just be air in the system that's being a pain in the ass to get out. At least I hope that's all it is.

Yikes. Did you complain? Did they do anything for you? 

[what]

2 hours ago, Casper said:

Yikes. Did you complain? Did they do anything for you? 

No, I fixed the problems and decided to never take the bike back there again. I probably should have said something in hindsight. 

[JustinNck1]

Got my top case lid painted today.

[J_Copeland]

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

[Casper]

On 12/2/2016 at 2:12 PM, Tpoppa said:

I've never changed the oil before winter or first thing in the spring in any of my bikes unless it was due because of mileage.  In the winter I start them every six weeks or so.   Never had a problem of any kind.    

If you let it sit for six weeks, most oil has drained off the drivetrain down into the pan. When you start it, it's rough on the drivetrain (lack of oil) for the first few seconds until oil is pumped back up to the top end. You'd be better off not starting it unless you're going for a ride. 

[Casper]

46 minutes ago, Isaac's Papa said:

"Valve train", but close enough. 

Sorry. Was watching football when replying. Yes valve train. 

[jacobhawkins]

Finished installing the power commander and ignition module, block off plates, air filter, and Woodcraft rearsets mocked up.  I'm going to have the bolts black oxided at work before I locktight them.  Servo buddy installed and now ready for the exhaust.  I forgot to order the brake light switch for the rearsets, so that'll have to be ordered.  

[ScubaCinci]

Yanked my ECU to have it flashed...should have it back in a week or so, not that the weather will be cooperative enough to make a difference how quickly it's done.

Also ordered a WARP9 rear wheel with a red cush hub for my XR650L...should be here Wednesday.

Tis the season for farkling.

[what]

So... I checked around the head and didn't see any signs of a leak, messed with the radiator again looking for air, no dice, bike still overheating after 5 minutes of being on giver or take. It has only ever done this when it is around 40 degrees out which is weird... did the same thing last year in November on the way to store it for the winter - which raises the question, will the ECU tell the engine to run hotter/leaner when it's cold out to act kinda like a choke? I did notice the bike is idling at a higher RPM than usual. The bike was running hot all summer but not overheating. I kinda wonder if the lower temps are causing the engine to run leaner/hotter and pushing it past the normal (2-3 bars short of max) warm weather temps. 

 

I may just say hell with it and bring it into a shop that can plug the reader in and see what warning code the bike is tossing out. 

[wolfeman28]

Just dropped about $5000 on motor parts for the RZ. And they will just sit for a year until i get a chance to work on it

[what]

24 minutes ago, Isaac's Papa said:

 

Andy, you need to perform a cylinder head leakdown test. White smoke and the quick overheat with no noticeable faults in the cooling system makes me think you've a cracked head or a blown gasket.  

Oh, forgot to mention white smoke went away. I'm going to bring it into the shop next weekend and have them look at it since engine related stuff is above my head for the moment. 

 

If it turns out it's a blown gasket/messed up head... I'm assuming that's an area of the engine they would have had to mess with for the valve check back in the spring? Not going to jump to conclusions here but if that's the case I'm going to raise a little hell. 

Edited December 6, 2016 by what

[what]

4 minutes ago, Isaac's Papa said:

Not really. You remove the rocker cover that's on the head, but that's about all the intricate interaction there will be unless they start pulling shims. Even then, the head bolts aren't touched. There's nothing they can do during a valve check to harm the gasket. 

Good to know, thanks. 

 

Hopefully the problem won't be serious and I'll just have to pay for a bit of distilled water, vinegar and some new 50/50 (and a little sting of shame for not being able to fix the issue myself).