What did you do to your bike today?

[PhilD'oh!]

Out of the country, so mine's stuck in the garage at work again. 

[what]

picked up the freshly bored out upper triple clamp for the track bike, thanks to @jacobhawkins. 

[JustinNck1]

6 hours ago, PhilD'oh! said:

Which one are you going with?

Terry's Custom seats out of Tennessee. I've never seen and FJR seat done by him, but I've seen some others and I was really impressed. I considered a Laam but heard too many horror stories of waiting to get the seat back. A Russell was out of my price range.

[PhilD'oh!]

6 hours ago, JustinNck1 said:

Terry's Custom seats out of Tennessee. I've never seen and FJR seat done by him, but I've seen some others and I was really impressed. I considered a Laam but heard too many horror stories of waiting to get the seat back. A Russell was out of my price range.

I might have to give him a try, I have a spare seat laying around.  My problem is, I need it to be no taller than stock, preferably lower. Also, it has to be slightly shorter, front-to-back to fit with my aux tank.  The Sargent I'm using now is this way, but not great for 14hr days.

[JustinNck1]

2 hours ago, PhilD'oh! said:

I might have to give him a try, I have a spare seat laying around.  My problem is, I need it to be no taller than stock, preferably lower. Also, it has to be slightly shorter, front-to-back to fit with my aux tank.  The Sargent I'm using now is this way, but not great for 14hr days.

He said his seats are usually 1 inch lower than stock. I have the same issue. Tried a Russell and it was a little tall for me.

Edited February 4, 2017 by JustinNck1

[2talltim]

8 hours ago, PhilD'oh! said:

I might have to give him a try, I have a spare seat laying around.  My problem is, I need it to be no taller than stock, preferably lower. Also, it has to be slightly shorter, front-to-back to fit with my aux tank.  The Sargent I'm using now is this way, but not great for 14hr days.

 

5 hours ago, JustinNck1 said:

He said his seats are usually 1 inch lower than stock. I have the same issue. Tried a Russell and it was a little tall for me.

I love mine. Every bike is different but on mine he lowered the back of the seat but kept the area in front  stock height in order to fix the sliding into the tank issue. I was concerned about it being lower but since it now pivots my hips to more upright it made it soooo much more comfortable and took away almost all pressure points. Check out is web site and FB page. He has lots of pics of his work.

http://www.terryscustomseats.com  

https://www.facebook.com/Terrys-Custom-Seats-150069175036324/

Edited February 5, 2017 by 2talltim

[mello dude]

Thanks for the tip on Terrys seats!

[what]

OEM front blinkers installed on sv650 to get it (more) ready to sell. Except for a few scratches on the fairing, it's now back to stock. That said, I don't know if Suzuki could have made it a more time-consuming process for such an easy swap. 

Edited February 5, 2017 by what

[electrode]

 

I had Spencer's mod the seat for the 1250. Can't wait to try it out. Installed a touring windshield (I hate well nuts).

Installed rebuilt forks on the sv. While I was at it I changed the front brake fluid and clutch fluid.

Tonight i'll order tires for the wife's S40. It looks like Jake Wilson has the lowest prices.

[2talltim]

Not today but yesterday I looked up the procedure to change my fork oil and realize I don't have the proper tools to do the job. So I text hoblick about it and he gave me a good price to do it that is cheaper than me buying the tools. Now I'm trying to decide if I want to spend the extra coin and have him revalve and spring it while we are in there.  

[Tonik]

6 minutes ago, 2talltim said:

Not today but yesterday I looked up the procedure to change my fork oil and realize I don't have the proper tools to do the job. So I text hoblick about it and he gave me a good price to do it that is cheaper than me buying the tools. Now I'm trying to decide if I want to spend the extra coin and have him revalve and spring it while we are in there.  

If you are keeping the bike for a bit, yes pry the money out of your cobweb covered wallet and do it right.

[2talltim]

3 minutes ago, Tonik said:

If you are keeping the bike for a bit, yes pry the money out of your cobweb covered wallet and do it right.

Not really a question of doing it right or wrong. Just a question of am I happy with what I have or do I need to make it better? Be a extra $250ish to re-valve dampening and $200 more than that to do the rebound, and the springs is a big question mark because right now I can't find anyone that makes a heavier spring than stock. And the answer to that question right now is "I thought I was happy with what I have" (but) "what if I'm wrong"

[Tonik]

7 minutes ago, 2talltim said:

Not really a question of doing it right or wrong. Just a question of am I happy with what I have or do I need to make it better? Be a extra $250ish to re-valve dampening and $200 more than that to do the rebound, and the springs is a big question mark because right now I can't find anyone that makes a heavier spring than stock. And the answer to that question right now is "I thought I was happy with what I have" (but) "what if I'm wrong"

The answer to that question is you are wrong.  A well reworked suspension for someone that aggressively drives their bike is always a huge improvement. But you are right, it isn't right or wrong.  It is good or better.

[what]

2 hours ago, 2talltim said:

Not today but yesterday I looked up the procedure to change my fork oil and realize I don't have the proper tools to do the job. So I text hoblick about it and he gave me a good price to do it that is cheaper than me buying the tools. Now I'm trying to decide if I want to spend the extra coin and have him revalve and spring it while we are in there.  

I will tell you that after he put 1.0kg springs and heavier oil into the SV it turned into a completely different bike. When it was under sprung the front never felt planted and would routinely chatter/wobble mid-corner. Corner entry was always shaky too because the forks would bottom out the second I tapped the brakes. SVs are notoriously under sprung for anyone over 130lbs though... 

 

 Are your springs soft for you on the connie? No idea how they spring touring bikes. I'd imagine they would toss some pretty hefty forks on there. 

[2talltim]

5 hours ago, what said:

I will tell you that after he put 1.0kg springs and heavier oil into the SV it turned into a completely different bike. When it was under sprung the front never felt planted and would routinely chatter/wobble mid-corner. Corner entry was always shaky too because the forks would bottom out the second I tapped the brakes. SVs are notoriously under sprung for anyone over 130lbs though... 

 

 Are your springs soft for you on the connie? No idea how they spring touring bikes. I'd imagine they would toss some pretty hefty forks on there. 

Stock Springs are 1.2kg, but keep in mind that pig already weighs 700ish pounds wet. Then add my fat ass with gear and 50lbs of luggage that's a rolling freight train. Might as well say I'm rolling at around 1000lbs in full tour mode. That's how heavy I was rolling on the fall gap trip if you want a "holy shit" thought thinking about how hard I was pushing it.

Edited February 6, 2017 by 2talltim

[2talltim]

9 minutes ago, Isaac's Papa said:

How are your tires wearing? Do you feel like it needs better suspension? I mean, I've followed you through some twisties and I didn't notice the bike losing its line or pushing on corner entry. 

Im obviously chewing up the rears. I can almost get 2 rears to one front but the front will be badly cupped by the time I get through the second rear. I'm getting  3 to 4 thousand from a rear and they are gone. Maybe 5 to 6 thousand before the front is so badly cupped I get a head shake.

Now I have the front preload crank down as tight as she'll go and I know I still occasionally bottom out because I keep a zip tie on my Forks for reference. Only time I really feel her push is if I get into a corner too hot and have to give her a little extra brake before the Apex. But I'm assuming anything would do that

Edited February 6, 2017 by 2talltim

[2talltim]

3 minutes ago, Isaac's Papa said:

Cupping isn't a direct line to faulty suspension, but if you've played with the air pressure settings and are still seeing poor tire wear, then you should investigate suspension upgrades. I don't know jack about the pig of a bike you ride, but cupping is not supposed to occur. 

My biggest research problem I come across is their aren't too many folks out there running these bikes like I do. Most of the COG guys are old men running them on the freeways and think everyone should get 10k miles out of a set of tires. 

#Fucking Race Bike Problems

 

 

[2talltim]

4 minutes ago, Isaac's Papa said:

Tell me about it. I hear people say "I get 8k miles from those tires..."

Um... three sets and I haven't seen anything more than 2200 miles from them. 

I think it's because we're fat dot com. 

It's because these people take the "Sport" out of sport touring and thinks the freeway is the way to travel. We are a dying breed my friend.

[what]

light another connie rider's ass on fire and they might be able to keep up with Tim.

 

If it doesn't feel like sloppy seconds going through corners then your springs are probably ok. I would get head shake on the SV when I got on the brakes hard too, before the spring swap. I'm guessing because the forks were fully compressed and the tire was then taking any remaining downforce directly.

 

You said you were running max pressure on your front though right? And still you were seeing cupping. 

[Connie14]

I got fitted for a knee brace by orthopedic surgeon, and I have been test driving trucks.  I will finally be able to start putting some miles in the dirt bike soon. 

[durk]

3 hours ago, Connie14 said:

I got fitted for a knee brace by orthopedic surgeon, and I have been test driving trucks.  I will finally be able to start putting some miles in the dirt bike soon. 

Just a heads up that brace will probably beat up the bike a bit. Not that you probably care too much. It is a dirt bike after all. I just know mine has wreaked some havoc on my quad and has put holes in my riding pants. 

[Wandering Soul]

Changed primary fluid in the evo.  Knocked the dust out of the airfilter element.  Checked the other fluids,  Good.  Checked air in the tires, warmed it up and BEAT THE CRAP OUT OF IT!!!!!

Gawd I needed that! 

[Connie14]

2 hours ago, durk said:

Just a heads up that brace will probably beat up the bike a bit. Not that you probably care too much. It is a dirt bike after all. I just know mine has wreaked some havoc on my quad and has put holes in my riding pants. 

Thanks for the heads up. 

[Al Z. Heimer]

On February 6, 2017 at 5:03 PM, 2talltim said:

Im obviously chewing up the rears. I can almost get 2 rears to one front but the front will be badly cupped by the time I get through the second rear. I'm getting  3 to 4 thousand from a rear and they are gone. Maybe 5 to 6 thousand before the front is so badly cupped I get a head shake.

Now I have the front preload crank down as tight as she'll go and I know I still occasionally bottom out because I keep a zip tie on my Forks for reference. Only time I really feel her push is if I get into a corner too hot and have to give her a little extra brake before the Apex. But I'm assuming anything would do that

http://www.avonmoto.com/download/Tires_101.pdf

Section 7 Tim. I retrieved this from the Avon site. Back in the day when I was involved with the Gold Wing clubs I was around a lot of guys and cupping was always the topic when talking tires. Some guys never some guys always. Mileage numbers varied all over the place as well. Like the article says---tire pressure helps but does not eliminate the cupping issue. The guys that ran higher pressure and were anal about checking had the least issues. The guys that did not even own a tire gauge had more cupping issues and got less mileage. I really don't have issues with the front on the Wing but the back scallops pretty bad. I'm not heavy on the brakes on any of the bikes and never have had cupping issues on any of them. The rears definitely get chewed up. So if you go by the article your doing it right. 

[Tonik]

12 minutes ago, Al Z. Heimer said:

http://www.avonmoto.com/download/Tires_101.pdf

Section 7 Tim. I retrieved this from the Avon site. Back in the day when I was involved with the Gold Wing clubs I was around a lot of guys and cupping was always the topic when talking tires. Some guys never some guys always. Mileage numbers varied all over the place as well. Like the article says---tire pressure helps but does not eliminate the cupping issue. The guys that ran higher pressure and were anal about checking had the least issues. The guys that did not even own a tire gauge had more cupping issues and got less mileage. I really don't have issues with the front on the Wing but the back scallops pretty bad. I'm not heavy on the brakes on any of the bikes and never have had cupping issues on any of them. The rears definitely get chewed up. So if you go by the article your doing it right. 

Top of page 10. Left side wears more because of road crown.

 

Tim's got a heavy bike, he is a bit heavy and it has lots of HP and he uses all of it. If he wants good grip he is going to eat tires. Just the way it is on that bike.

Edited February 7, 2017 by Tonik